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  #11  
Old 06-15-2011, 01:20 PM
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Yeah whatever - my shims come in thicknesses of 1.45, 1.50, 1.55, 1.60 etc. Good luck finding 1.575 and 1.525 thickness, or should you round off? Then 1.575 becomes 1.60 or maybe 1.55 and 1.525 would be 1.50 or maybe 1.55. Which should you choose, the 1.60, 1.55 or the 1.50? It's eaiser to measure in millimeters and calculate in millimeters.

If you think it's not likely the valves might have zero clearence or less, then you haven't worked on many of these motors. Especially ones that are raced and not maintained at regular intervals.

I noticed that the service manual has a nice article with pics that will really help and it covers other maintenance chores also.

joey, what adversion do you have against service manuals? have fun working on your motor.
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  #12  
Old 06-15-2011, 06:11 PM
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thanks joey u are very helpfull unlike other ppl who try to be and has a rude way of showing it and this is the first ever trx that i have owned so i really dont know much about them i like to try to do stuff myself so the shops dont rip me off and untelling what else they would try/will do to it they are rip offs but thanks to everyone who has been apart of this thread
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  #13  
Old 06-15-2011, 07:35 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Here 2 help View Post
q1 Yeah whatever - my shims come in thicknesses of 1.45, 1.50, 1.55, 1.60 etc. Good luck finding 1.575 and 1.525 thickness, or should you round off? Then 1.575 becomes 1.60 or maybe 1.55 and 1.525 would be 1.50 or maybe 1.55. Which should you choose, the 1.60, 1.55 or the 1.50? It's eaiser to measure in millimeters and calculate in millimeters.

a1 after your last "helpful" post you explained that he should round it down, right smarta$$
hondamans post was in standard not metric so i said what would make sence to someone new to 450s

q2 If you think it's not likely the valves might have zero clearence or less, then you haven't worked on many of these motors. Especially ones that are raced and not maintained at regular intervals.

a2 i said that it was unlikely that they were at 0, prob less if you read it properly

I noticed that the service manual has a nice article with pics that will really help and it covers other maintenance chores also.

q3 joey, what adversion do you have against service manuals? have fun working on your motor.
a3 actually i do enjoy working on Rs, you are just upset that i called you out and i have manuals for both models, i just figured he could buy dirtwheels and have some reading material after the work is done

Last edited by joeylowthers450R; 06-15-2011 at 07:38 PM.
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  #14  
Old 06-16-2011, 01:32 AM
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ok u wen. i bin dooin it rong 4 the last 40 yeerz
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  #15  
Old 06-16-2011, 02:34 PM
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Quote: Originally Posted by Here 2 help View Post
ok u wen. i bin dooin it rong 4 the last 40 yeerz
i didn't think it was a contest to "wen", but since you always have a remark,

1.575mm shim is part# 14916-MBB-000

1.525mm shim is part# 14914-MBB-000

these part# are from honda, not hot cams, hth
i use a hot cam set, but there are other options

did you need me to mail them to you? since you have a hard time finding them.

i didn't say you were doing it wrong, i just said you are an a$$ to people that come on here to save money and always have stupid remarks, i would have thought you would be more respectful after 40 yeerz

i hope you keep helping people
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  #16  
Old 06-16-2011, 05:28 PM
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well did you? i see you read this^ 5 min ago
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  #17  
Old 06-17-2011, 12:22 PM
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Sorry I didn't get to respond earlier - I was too busy at the time to reply, but I did get to scan the site.

Of course you are right about the "in between shim sizes", but why would I (or anyone else) want to buy a $7.00 shim from Honda when I can buy shims from a supplier like K&L Supply for $3.00? I don't see that valve adjustments need to be made in 1 thousandths of a inch increments when the average shade tree mechanic can't "feel" the difference between 1 and 2 thousandths of an inch and Honda recommends an allowance of plus or minus 1 thousandths, so it's a moot point

My engine has a specified valve clearence of .12mm intake +-.03 = (.005 +-.001 inch) and .28mm exhaust +-.03 = .011 (+ or - 1 inch) exhaust. I just use a (in mm) .15 and .09 feeler gages. If the .09 goes and the .12 does not, I'm done. If I need to change shims then I just use shims in .05mm increments at $3 each instead of .25 increments at $7 each. It's just simple economics.

I work on all brands of motors. I have about $1000 in shims on hand. I can't justify doubling that investment for .001 of an inch accuracy when that accuracy is not required.
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  #18  
Old 06-17-2011, 01:23 PM
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[QUOTE=Here 2 help;4716]Yeah whatever - my shims come in thicknesses of 1.45, 1.50, 1.55, 1.60 etc. Good luck finding 1.575 and 1.525 thickness, or should you round off? Then 1.575 becomes 1.60 or maybe 1.55 and 1.525 would be 1.50 or maybe 1.55. Which should you choose, the 1.60, 1.55 or the 1.50? It's eaiser to measure in millimeters and calculate in millimeters.



[QUOTE=Here 2 help;4734]Sorry I didn't get to respond earlier - I was too busy at the time to reply, but I did get to scan the site.

Of course you are right about the "in between shim sizes", but why would I (or anyone else) want to buy a $7.00 shim from Honda when I can buy shims from a supplier like K&L Supply for $3.00? I don't see that valve adjustments need to be made in 1 thousandths of a inch increments when the average shade tree mechanic can't "feel" the difference between 1 and 2 thousandths of an inch and Honda recommends an allowance of plus or minus 1 thousandths, so it's a moot point


I didn't quote it, but if read correctly it says that i use the hot cam kit. $$
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  #19  
Old 06-25-2011, 06:17 AM
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thanks for everyones hlp i got a shim kit and got my valves in spec i still got a ways before i need new valves
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