Quote: Originally Posted by
joeylowthers450R
Quote: Originally Posted by
Here 2 help
Get a service manual and follow the instructions. You can learn by the mistakes you made.
why don't you tell us what mistakes he made!
i tired of your a$$hole remarks to people. i see that you do help some people but if you don't know the answer then you turn into a A$$.
if you don't have anything useful to say or are in a bad mood, stfu! people don't need you to tell them to "take it somewhere and have it fixed right". they will figure that out on there own if none of the nice guys on here help them out
OK. Since I cannot quote the service manual, you will have to bear with me if my explanation is not fluid.
Now it makes no difference if you are using the stock cam or an aftermarket cam. In therory, all the cams have the same base circle for the engine they are designed to be used in. The maximum thickness of a shim is of no concern. The minimum thichness of a shim is critical. When you reach the mininum thickness shim, you have to replace the valve.
Since no feeler gage can be inserted (without force) you have to presume the clearence is zero or less. (less meaning the valve is actually open a thousandths or two or more) Since the shims are measured in millimeters it is redundant to measure the shims in thousandths. Each shim is marked with it's thickness to one one-hundredth of a millimeter. You should measure the clearence in milimeters.
Since a little extra clearence is more desireable than too little clearence, you should calculate the desired shim thickness by checking the thickness of the installed shim and subtracting the desired clearence (or in this case, the specified clearence).
Compared to the valve seat, the valve is soft. As the valve face erodes, the clearence between the cam and valve lifter decreases. Running "high flow" air filters will speed the erosion by allowing a greater amount and larger particles of dirt to enter the engine. The intake valves usually wear faster than the exhaust valves because the exhaust valves are harder (to resist the heat) and the intake valves are closing on dirty air.
Each time the shim is changed it is prudent to rotate the engine to open and close the valves to "seat" the valve and make the clearence measurement more accurate.
I race a Honda. When I adjust my valves, I set the clearence to the loose side increasing the length of time between adjustments and reducing the possibility of the valve clearence "zeroing" out while riding before the next service interval. These are "race bred" engines. The valves need to be checked regularly and frequently. The piston and rings need to be replaced at the specified interval to prevent engine damage. Don't whine about a dime. You purchased a high performance vehicle and high maintenance cost are incidental.
So, there you are. I spent an hour typing this explanation (with few or no mispellings and gammatical errors) while I could have physically performed the service in less time. Now you can attempt to service your own engine and with luck, not damage anything beyond repair. While you are working on yours' I will be riding mine.