TRX won't start

[Here 2 help]

Andy, if it won't stay running after started and the valve clearence is sufficient (too loose is better than too tight) and it's not losing spark - the problem is in the carb or the exhaust. Sometimes, when a machine has been in storage, rodents fill the exhaust with material that chokes off the exit of gases - pressure builds and the engine dies.

There's three circuits in the carb - low speed (idle) - mid-range (running at a steady speed between appx. 1/4 to 3/4 throttle - high speed (wide open up to top RPM)

The idle circuit is controlled by the air/fuel mixture screw (if the screw is on the air cleaner side of the carb - it's an "air" screw - if it's on the engine side of the carb - it's a fuel screw), the difference is that they work opposite - air screw is screwed in to richen mixture - fuel screw is turned out to richen mixture.

There is no "initial" setting for the throttle stop screw (idle speed screw) - I turn it in till I see the slide rise about a 1/16 of an inch - start the engine - set the idle speed - let it warm up then adjust both the idle speed and fuel mixture screws until satisfactory idle is obtained.

After the idle is set - drive the machine in 2nd or 3rd gear at various cruising speeds to assure the carb in not too rich or too lean at the steady throttle settings (too lean it kinda acts like it wasts to go faster but can't - maybe surges a bit) too rich it just kinda blubbers like the choke is on. Adjust by raising the needle (move the clip down a notch) for too lean or lower the needle for too rich.

Once you have the low and mid right, check the top end - in 2nd or 3rd gear - hold the throttle wide open till the engine runs out of rpm or hits the rev limiter. It should accelerate linearly without surging (lean) or blubbering (rich).

Sometimes problems are caused by improper float bowl venting, obstructed fuel flow, incorrect float level or vacuum leaks.

It's rocket science at the entry level.

You can get a kill switch at most any cycle dealer and some auto supplies.

Good luck,
Steve

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Hey Steve,
I got it to idle some what. It almost seems the throttle cable is getting hung up sometimes when I release it even thought it moves freely, so I took it it off and lubed it up but didn't seem to make much difference. It made it hard to set the idle, once it seems to be fully released I have a good idle, sometimes it'll be to high and then settle down other times it goes right where it should be.

Once first started, I noticed it seems to hick up about 8 times. Once it's warm it runs pretty smooth..almost seems like a spark issue. I'll see if it happens Friday when I have some more time.

I bought a starter button with two connections to wire in. I'm assuming I need to splice in to the wires near the handlebar (y/r and green), solder in some longer wire and find a place to attach it.

Clutch cable seems shot and I'm not able to get into reverse. I tried to squeeze and shift in to second and it popped into second telling me the clutch lever on the tranny wasn't even moving. Seems it's time for a new cable.

Thanks again.

Andy

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anyone else ever splice in a starter button or found away to fix the old starter switch?