Dallan - although it tests good, you probably need to replace the stator
A friend of mine lost spark on his 84 XR200 4-valve
Awesome bikes, I had the 85 XR200R 4 Valve. Light weight, lots of torque for fun tight trail riding. I sold it, and found a mint condition 1996 XR250L (the factory road legal XR to get across town to the hills without a trailer). First 3 gears are lower like the XRs, top 3 are higher like the XLs). Love it, perfectly balanced bike. I put lower geared sprockets on it as my house is at 4500ft and the mountains right behind me are 10k ft, need that torque!
He used my meter and service manual to test the ignition system - the only thing that tested good was the stator, so he replaced the coil (cheap and easy to get to); no spark - he changed the CDI box, (not exacly cheap, but easy to change) ; no spark - the next thing which was inside the engine on the clutch side was the pulse generator (not easy to get to, but cheaper than the stator); still no spark - finally he installed a new stator; BINGO, spark - it started and ran!
Later he put the old CDI box back on and still had spark, he then put the old CDI box back on, it still ran - he never did put the old pulse generator back on, but he was pretty certain it was good too.
Turned out the only part that tested good was bad. Today I have a peak voltage tester and can more accurately troubleshoot ignition systems.
Yea I found that post here where you mentioned it, I hoped it was fine... it tests A-OK on the meter, continuity in the right range across the 3 yellow leads, and zero continuity between them and ground... but really its the last thing I haven't replaced.
Soooooo I just ordered one up. I'm far from a rich guy but dropping $100 or so on new parts to get this bike going is well worth it I guess. Other than dropping that valve and having a dealer rebuild it, its been a reliable machine. My stator is the 12 pole version. I'll replace the rectifier as well anyway... and if I still dont have spark I'll roll it outside and light it on fire.
As to the Yellow/white wire - just presume the yellow wire is the y/w and test under that presumption - I studied the wiring diagram and the yellow/white wire is Siamese'ed to one yellow wire from the stator - if you use the lowest ohm scale your meter has and check to all three of the yellow wires from the stator, the resistance should near zero on one leg and you will read winding resistance on the other two legs.
Well I'll post an update after Christmas when the parts get here. At least I haven't put oil in it yet from having the stator cover off.
Thanks again for the tips and suggestions.