05 trx 450r service manual - Honda TRX Forum
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post #1 of 8 Old 01-12-2020, 04:30 PM Thread Starter
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05 trx 450r service manual

Anyone know where I can get a free download? I had one a month or so ago on my computer but one day my computer flipped out and I lost it. I gotta put the top end of this 450 together (hopefully today) and I need some info. I've searched and searched this morning, but, I can't find one. Thanks!
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post #2 of 8 Old 01-12-2020, 04:33 PM
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I think I have up to chapter 7, what’s your email address.


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post #3 of 8 Old 01-12-2020, 09:56 PM
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Just emailed u the manual


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post #4 of 8 Old 01-13-2020, 04:08 PM
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I have the complete PDF manual if you need it
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post #5 of 8 Old 01-15-2020, 02:36 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Here 2 help View Post
I have the complete PDF manual if you need it


Thank you. javman sent me pdf's of 13 chapters. It includes the cylinder/ head/ cam and also the piston, so I hope that's all I need.
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I have the complete PDF manual if you need it
Hey, h2h,So, I got this trx 450 back together. The top end. It didn't have much oil in it and the very top of the cylinder was scored, so I sent it out....blah blah blah, and the camshaft, and lifters and cam bearings were wiped out. So, I wanna be sure that the oil pump is working. I put oil in it and by cranking it over by hand shouldn't I see some oil coming up to the cam, rocker assembly? I took the oil line that goes to the cooler ( the one on the R side) I think that is the supply side, and cranked it a bit and some oil came out, so it seems the pump is working?
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It takes several seconds for oil to get from the pump to the top of the engine - the oil goes from the oil; pump to the cooler, from the cooler to the oil filter cavity (check page 5-2) - from the filter through a passage in the cylinder and head to the cam.

Major change from 05 to 06 - the oil cooler was eliminated and the pressure relief valve was relocated from the engine case to the engine cover directly below the oil filter.

Oil gets to the cam through an internal passage in the cylinder and head - as long as you lubed the cam and other parts with assembly lube or a good grease it will be fine for several minutes of running without oil pressure. If you want to check oil pressure without starting the engine, take the spark plug out, remove the crankshaft hole cap (page 4-10) and using an electric drill with an allen bit in the pinion gear retaining bolt, spin the engine clockwise (however fast the drill will turn it) - you should get a somewhat steady flow to the oil filter from the hole at the top of the filter cavity or from the oil cooler line on the left side of the engine.

If the flow seems insufficient, remove the LH engine cover and inspect the pressure relief valve as detailed in section 5. The only reason to suspect a lack of oil flow to the head is if the engine was serviced by a novice mechanic who used gaskets sealers. Other than that, the failure of the pressure relief valve or oil pump will result in reduced flow to that area. Reduced flow is not a problem unless the engine is allowed to idle more than 3 minutes after reaching normal operating temperature. Extended idling is the #1 killer of cams and heads. I've never seen a failed oil pump, but I have seen engine case damage that locked an oil pump causing a sheared oil pump drive shaft. To service the oil pump requires complete engine disassembly.
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post #8 of 8 Old Yesterday, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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It takes several seconds for oil to get from the pump to the top of the engine - the oil goes from the oil; pump to the cooler, from the cooler to the oil filter cavity (check page 5-2) - from the filter through a passage in the cylinder and head to the cam.

Major change from 05 to 06 - the oil cooler was eliminated and the pressure relief valve was relocated from the engine case to the engine cover directly below the oil filter.

Oil gets to the cam through an internal passage in the cylinder and head - as long as you lubed the cam and other parts with assembly lube or a good grease it will be fine for several minutes of running without oil pressure. If you want to check oil pressure without starting the engine, take the spark plug out, remove the crankshaft hole cap (page 4-10) and using an electric drill with an allen bit in the pinion gear retaining bolt, spin the engine clockwise (however fast the drill will turn it) - you should get a somewhat steady flow to the oil filter from the hole at the top of the filter cavity or from the oil cooler line on the left side of the engine.

If the flow seems insufficient, remove the LH engine cover and inspect the pressure relief valve as detailed in section 5. The only reason to suspect a lack of oil flow to the head is if the engine was serviced by a novice mechanic who used gaskets sealers. Other than that, the failure of the pressure relief valve or oil pump will result in reduced flow to that area. Reduced flow is not a problem unless the engine is allowed to idle more than 3 minutes after reaching normal operating temperature. Extended idling is the #1 killer of cams and heads. I've never seen a failed oil pump, but I have seen engine case damage that locked an oil pump causing a sheared oil pump drive shaft. To service the oil pump requires complete engine disassembly.
Okie dokie. Thanks! I might try the drill trick when I'm ready. I'm chasing valve clearances right now and I'll have to wait until Tuesday to exchange some shims. I made 2 trips to the Honda shop yesterday, but, I got the intakes good. Still gotta get the ex valves right. IDK what I did when I picked up new shims. After replacing the cam/ cam holder/rocker arm assembly, the ex valves measured .016. So I did what I thought was the correct math and put in some new shims and it was tough to get a .002 feeler in it. So back to the shop and got 2 thinner shims and still can't get a .002 in it. It's gonna be a guessing game until I get it right I guess. I'm pretty tight with the shop, so they may let me take an assortment of shims and then bring back what I don't use.
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