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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello,
I have a 2001 Honda TRX250TM that I purchased last summer. Have recently been noticing the clutch slipping (when punching the throttle, instead of going faster, engine revs and it often makes a grinding or slipping sound, anywhere in 3rd, 4th or 5th.) Also periodically notice it creeps, idles high in neutral, and smokes (foul burning smell) usually after longer rides. Are these all signs I should rebuild my clutch or does it sound like there are several issues going on?
Would appreciate any advice anyone has to share on this topic.
Thanks everyone馃檹
 

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The multi-plate clutch release (external adjustment) needs to be adjusted immediately. If that does not fix it, the the clutch will need to be rebuilt.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The multi-plate clutch release (external adjustment) needs to be adjusted immediately. If that does not fix it, the the clutch will need to be rebuilt.
Thanks for the help. I have already adjusted the multi plate clutch release and I did not notice any difference. I guess I鈥檓 on to rebuilding the clutch. Would I need to get more than just new plates, disks and springs?
 

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You won't know exactly what is needed until you get it apart, but generally new fiber plates, springs, perhaps a gasket, oil and an oil filter is the minimum - the driven plates may be reconditioned by glass bead blasting unless they are warped - if warped they need to be replaced. You may also find the centrifugal clutch and bell need replaced or reconditioned also.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You won't know exactly what is needed until you get it apart, but generally new fiber plates, springs, perhaps a gasket, oil and an oil filter is the minimum - the driven plates may be reconditioned by glass bead blasting unless they are warped - if warped they need to be replaced. You may also find the centrifugal clutch and bell need replaced or reconditioned also.
Thanks again for the advice! I will have to give it a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I just rebuild the change clutch (new springs, plates, disks) also filed the edges of of the clutch basket which had some imprints made by the fiber plates. Everything Is put back together and I notice a huge improvement. No slipping and much more guts especially in higher gears. Still noticing that it seems to idle high in neutral which is also (and always) accompanied by creaping at idle in 1st and reverse. I鈥檓 guessing this may be an issue with my centrifugal clutch now? Well I didn鈥檛 tear it completely apart, I did a general inspection of it and it looked alright other than some rust on the edges of the weight assembly. Not really interested in getting an entire new centrifugal clutch, so I may just continue to ride with those symptoms unless it鈥檚 going to cause greater damage to other things. Any thoughts to share on this subject would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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If it idles high in neutral, turn the idle speed down - throttle stop screw on RH side of carb - if it does not change the idle speed, the throttle cable is too tight and need some slack put in it
4324
 

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If it idles high in neutral, turn the idle speed down - throttle stop screw on RH side of carb - if it does not change the idle speed, the throttle cable is too tight and need some slack put in it
View attachment 4324
Thanks I will give that a try. The only reason I don鈥檛 think it鈥檚 carb related is because it doesn鈥檛 always idle high in neutral. It鈥檚 only after it has been riding for a while and then the creeping follows. I鈥檝e never had it idle high and not had it creeping, which makes me wonder if it鈥檚 clutch related. Thanks for the help though!
 

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It's certainly clutch related, but the centrifugal clutch is RPM sensitive and a high idle will definitely make it creep when in gear. Idle speed is supposed to be set when the engine is fully warm (about 20 minutes of riding - not idling). It will idle low or not at all when cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
When looking into adjusting the throttle stop screw on my carb I noticed that the insulator boot running from the carb to the engine had small cracks on either side of it, and I also noticed that the breather tube running from my engine to air box was disconnected. Could either of these be contributing to the high idling?
 

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If the cracks in the carb holder (carb to engine) are deep enough, it could be a vacuum leak allowing more air into the engine and increasing the idle - test by spraying with soapy water - if the engine slows then the cracks are filled with water, then you have found a vacuum leak and the potential cause of a high idle.

The tube from the air cleaner to carb will not affect idle, but needs to be connected to prevent dirty air from entering the combustion chamber. Dirty air will cause premature ring and cylinder wear while water entering will put the fire out.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
After taking your advice and adjusting the throttle stop screw my atv idles great and haven鈥檛 had any creeping. Thanks for the help.
Now I鈥檓 facing a no start situation. I鈥檝e got no lights, no neutral or reverse indicator lights, and no loud click coming from the solenoid. I鈥檓 guessing it may be my battery (however I have no means of testing it, or any of my quads electical system)馃槒 I have had similar issues with my quad in the spring however I bought a new battery and solenoid and it seemed to be working fine. Wondering now if it鈥檚 not my battery seeing it has only 6-8 months use max. My atv starts up just fine with pull start however after over an hour of riding I got no charge in my battery. Wouldn鈥檛 even give me a neutral light or headlights. Does this sound like a bad battery? Alternator? Possibly starter? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 

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You can't charge the battery with the vehicle 'charging system' - the charging system is designed to replenish the charge used when starting and operating at low speed. The charging system is operating at a loss below about 2500 rpm and it's output is only slightly more than a trickle charger. It is a single phase alternator rated at 130 watts at 5000 rpm. That 10 amps AC at 5000 rpm. Now rectify the AC to DC and there is about 5 amps available to charge the battery and run the lights at 5000 rpm. Let's say the engine is running at 3000 rpm - there is perhaps 3 amps available and the lights (if not changed from factory specification) use headlights 25 watts each (2 of them) that consumes 4 amps and the tail light uses 1/2 amp - so with the lights on the battery is supplying 1.5 amps while the engine is running meaning it is discharging - when the engine is running at 5000 or more rpm, there is about 1/2 amp available to charge the battery - the normal charge rate of the original size battery is 1.5 amps for 5 to 10 hours - therefore, with the lights off and running the engine at 3 to 4000 rpm, it will take a discharged battery (12.3 volts) 5 to 10 hours to be recharged to the normal 13.2 volt value of a fully charged 12v lead acid battery.

What you need to do is get the battery fully charged or replaced with a fully charged battery, start the engine and rev to about 3000 rpm and watch the voltage on the battery with a volt meter. It should charge slowly to a maximum of 14.8 volts and then discharge to 13.4 before recharging to 14.8. If you see this voltage cycle, it indicates the charging system is working. If the battery voltage declines below 12.8 volts, it indicates the charging system is not working. It will start with a dead battery because the ignition system is AC while the starting and lighting system is DC. The ignition does not need battery voltage to make spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thank you. This is all very helpful information to bear in mind. I guess if I get my battery charged and my atv is running fine again, I鈥檓 still left wondering why it went dead in the first place. That would be a 2nd battery going dead in less than 8 months. If it was the alternator would you not experience some symptoms that it鈥檚 failing? In my case I had been riding for a while, no symptoms of anything unusual, tried to start it a few minutes later and it was completely dead, all lights out. Just kinda came out of the blue.
 

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In the case of an instantaneous failure, I first look at the fuse (it only has one) - if the fuse is good, I go for connections especially grounds. This information is something new to me. Now a completely dead battery will not charge back up and should be replaced, but it needs to be tested to see how dead it is.

No - an hour of normal riding would not even begin to charge the battery, but an unscientific test is if the lights work with the engine running, then the alternator is doing something.

Now a battery discharges slowly when in storage - the lower the temp of the battery, the more slowly is discharges - during storage the battery should be recharged every 30 days with a .5 to 1.25 amp charger until the battery is at at lease 13.2 volts and no more than 14.8 volts - the voltage needs to be checked 4 hours after being removed from charging to read the stabilized voltage.

With the AC ignition and DC electrical system, you do not get any indication of failing - you could be riding with the lights on and the lights would dim until completely dark and that would be the indication of a charging system failure, but the engine would continue to run just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I have indicator lights and headlights when it鈥檚 running. I also tried another battery (also dead or close to) and I get a neutral light, but that鈥檚 it..no startup, no headlights. I鈥檓 gonna get the batteries fully charged and see what happens. If it seems like my alternator is fine I鈥檓 not sure what鈥檚 causing these batteries to drain. I ride this quad close to every day, and this completely dead battery seemed to come out of the blue. Really appreciate all the help馃檹
 

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You will need to check for a key off draw - connect a low wattage 6v bulb between the ground wire and the neg side of the battery with the key off - the light should not even glow. If the light glows or is bright start disconnecting things like the rectifier,CDI box, whatever you can think of to get the light to turn off - this will isolate the component causing the key off draw. If no key off draw, then it's time to test the charging system.
 
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