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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello,
I have a 2001 Honda TRX250TM that I purchased last summer. Have recently been noticing the clutch slipping (when punching the throttle, instead of going faster, engine revs and it often makes a grinding or slipping sound, anywhere in 3rd, 4th or 5th.) Also periodically notice it creeps, idles high in neutral, and smokes (foul burning smell) usually after longer rides. Are these all signs I should rebuild my clutch or does it sound like there are several issues going on?
Would appreciate any advice anyone has to share on this topic.
Thanks everyone馃檹
 

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The multi-plate clutch release (external adjustment) needs to be adjusted immediately. If that does not fix it, the the clutch will need to be rebuilt.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The multi-plate clutch release (external adjustment) needs to be adjusted immediately. If that does not fix it, the the clutch will need to be rebuilt.
Thanks for the help. I have already adjusted the multi plate clutch release and I did not notice any difference. I guess I鈥檓 on to rebuilding the clutch. Would I need to get more than just new plates, disks and springs?
 

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You won't know exactly what is needed until you get it apart, but generally new fiber plates, springs, perhaps a gasket, oil and an oil filter is the minimum - the driven plates may be reconditioned by glass bead blasting unless they are warped - if warped they need to be replaced. You may also find the centrifugal clutch and bell need replaced or reconditioned also.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
You won't know exactly what is needed until you get it apart, but generally new fiber plates, springs, perhaps a gasket, oil and an oil filter is the minimum - the driven plates may be reconditioned by glass bead blasting unless they are warped - if warped they need to be replaced. You may also find the centrifugal clutch and bell need replaced or reconditioned also.
Thanks again for the advice! I will have to give it a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well I just rebuild the change clutch (new springs, plates, disks) also filed the edges of of the clutch basket which had some imprints made by the fiber plates. Everything Is put back together and I notice a huge improvement. No slipping and much more guts especially in higher gears. Still noticing that it seems to idle high in neutral which is also (and always) accompanied by creaping at idle in 1st and reverse. I鈥檓 guessing this may be an issue with my centrifugal clutch now? Well I didn鈥檛 tear it completely apart, I did a general inspection of it and it looked alright other than some rust on the edges of the weight assembly. Not really interested in getting an entire new centrifugal clutch, so I may just continue to ride with those symptoms unless it鈥檚 going to cause greater damage to other things. Any thoughts to share on this subject would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 

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If it idles high in neutral, turn the idle speed down - throttle stop screw on RH side of carb - if it does not change the idle speed, the throttle cable is too tight and need some slack put in it
4324
 

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If it idles high in neutral, turn the idle speed down - throttle stop screw on RH side of carb - if it does not change the idle speed, the throttle cable is too tight and need some slack put in it
View attachment 4324
Thanks I will give that a try. The only reason I don鈥檛 think it鈥檚 carb related is because it doesn鈥檛 always idle high in neutral. It鈥檚 only after it has been riding for a while and then the creeping follows. I鈥檝e never had it idle high and not had it creeping, which makes me wonder if it鈥檚 clutch related. Thanks for the help though!
 

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It's certainly clutch related, but the centrifugal clutch is RPM sensitive and a high idle will definitely make it creep when in gear. Idle speed is supposed to be set when the engine is fully warm (about 20 minutes of riding - not idling). It will idle low or not at all when cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
When looking into adjusting the throttle stop screw on my carb I noticed that the insulator boot running from the carb to the engine had small cracks on either side of it, and I also noticed that the breather tube running from my engine to air box was disconnected. Could either of these be contributing to the high idling?
 

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If the cracks in the carb holder (carb to engine) are deep enough, it could be a vacuum leak allowing more air into the engine and increasing the idle - test by spraying with soapy water - if the engine slows then the cracks are filled with water, then you have found a vacuum leak and the potential cause of a high idle.

The tube from the air cleaner to carb will not affect idle, but needs to be connected to prevent dirty air from entering the combustion chamber. Dirty air will cause premature ring and cylinder wear while water entering will put the fire out.
 
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