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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone. So I’ve got an 05 trx 450r that the kicker is locking up. It’s been to the mechanic where the replaced the cam chain due to kink but didn’t fix the problem. I then replaced the first gear idler and it has worked fine for a couple riding sessions but last time I killed it and went to start it and it was locking up a little. The motor will turn with an Allan wrench and also if I press the clutch a bunch it seems to get it to where I can get a good kick out of it then it locks back up. The valves have been adjusted along with the decompressor while at the shop. I’ve read about 100 threads but none exactly like mine so I thought I’d post. If I rock it back in forth in gear it sort of releases but not every time. I’ve also noticed that if in gear and clutch pulled; when I kick it the bike wants to move forward (cold start)? Little about the bike, it’s got a 12-1 high compression piston stage 2 hot cam ported head. Any advice would be appreciated. When it runs, it runs strong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I’ve been fiddling with it this morning. The kicker will actually go down if I apply pressure to it for a few seconds. So I step on it and it’s locked but if I hold pressure it’ll go down and go down with ease.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
4176
I pulled the oil filter and foundsilver shavings. top end was previously built by prior owner. Not sure if this amount is normal seems a bit excessive. Could it be crank bearing?Isn’t it usually copper color if it is?
 

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Sounds like the kick start is simply locking due to compression - if you apply constant pressure until it goes over TDC and then it kicks normally, it may only be a compression issue which can be exacerbated by raw fuel in the combustion chamber. If it sets unused and gets hard to kick, that's one thing. If it is hard to kick immediately after stalling or shutting off, that's another thing. When does it get hard to kick?

Bits of metal in the oil filter is not abnormal after new parts have been installed - new parts have to break-in and part of that process is shedding bits left behind during manufacture and from the seating process between mating parts, but keep an eye on it - the rod bearing itself is shiny white and the bearing cage or retainer is bronze - if the amount of metal bits increase, something bad is happening - if they decrease, it because the parts have seated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sounds like the kick start is simply locking due to compression - if you apply constant pressure until it goes over TDC and then it kicks normally, it may only be a compression issue which can be exacerbated by raw fuel in the combustion chamber. If it sets unused and gets hard to kick, that's one thing. If it is hard to kick immediately after stalling or shutting off, that's another thing. When does it get hard to kick?

Bits of metal in the oil filter is not abnormal after new parts have been installed - new parts have to break-in and part of that process is shedding bits left behind during manufacture and from the seating process between mating parts, but keep an eye on it - the rod bearing itself is shiny white and the bearing cage or retainer is bronze - if the amount of metal bits increase, something bad is happening - if they decrease, it because the parts have seated.
Thank you for the response. This last time it froze I was going uphill and about to go through a small fence and stalled it immediately got hard to kick. I was able to get it kicked over and back to my truck but haven’t rode it since.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sounds like the kick start is simply locking due to compression - if you apply constant pressure until it goes over TDC and then it kicks normally, it may only be a compression issue which can be exacerbated by raw fuel in the combustion chamber. If it sets unused and gets hard to kick, that's one thing. If it is hard to kick immediately after stalling or shutting off, that's another thing. When does it get hard to kick?

Bits of metal in the oil filter is not abnormal after new parts have been installed - new parts have to break-in and part of that process is shedding bits left behind during manufacture and from the seating process between mating parts, but keep an eye on it - the rod bearing itself is shiny white and the bearing cage or retainer is bronze - if the amount of metal bits increase, something bad is happening - if they decrease, it because the parts have seated.
If there was raw fuel in the combustion chamber, if I pulled the spark wouldn’t it kick fine? That hasn’t been the case for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah - I'm scratching for possibilities and you are the mechanic - I am responding to a description and you are responding the the mechanical's
So I think I’ve figured it out. The decompressor spring was off the arm holding it back which let the pin slide out and wasn’t letting off compression. Is the decompressor arm suppose to fall like that in the pic when cycling? Is there a certain way to put this spring on so it doesn’t pop off so easy? I want to do whatever I can to get rid of this for more than a couple rides. Thanks in advance!!
 

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I'm a little lost here - there are 2 springs; one on the decompressor weight and one on the lifter arm - which one came off? And the purpose of the spring on the weight is to hold it close to the allen head bolt until engine speed causes it to move outward retracting the decompressor pin. The spring on the lifter arm holds it away from the decompressor weight to reduce or eliminate noise. Neither spring should come off unless it's damaged or assemble incorrectly.

124 psi compression is in the normal range, so compression is not as much a problem as the decompressor not working properly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'm a little lost here - there are 2 springs; one on the decompressor weight and one on the lifter arm - which one came off? And the purpose of the spring on the weight is to hold it close to the allen head bolt until engine speed causes it to move outward retracting the decompressor pin. The spring on the lifter arm holds it away from the decompressor weight to reduce or eliminate noise. Neither spring should come off unless it's damaged or assemble incorrectly.

124 psi compression is in the normal range, so compression is not as much a problem as the decompressor not working properly.
So I’m only seeing the one spring that holds the handle in which releases compression during the kick. Where is the second spring supposed to go? The lil arm piece lifted up off the arm and was allowing the slide to come out and not lift the release as picture shows.
4183
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I gotcha. Ya the #8 is there. I’ll swap out springs on the weight and see how that goes. I appreciate your help on this one! Kinda new to all this but tired of paying a shop to fix it and end up not really fixing it. Spent 700 dollars to get this problem not fixed.
 
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