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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1988 TRX250X I just rebuilt. It has ran great for a month now I have to tow it too get it Start. Then sometimes I can kick it and it will start. When I can’t kick start it I have tried. Starting fluid and nothing this would make me believe that’s it’s not fuel related. Checked compression 150# New valves installed and set at .004 new plug no go. When tow the bike it starts then sometimes it kicks over then sometimes it won’t. I ohm’d every wire on bike and it checks good as far as service manual. Any other help be great Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Replace the stator
Would you replace the stater if once you get the bike running it runs excellent? Can you help me understand how The stater could be faulty? Everything Ohmd out. Or is the state or faulty and you have to tow the bike to create enough energy to create spark? I’m just trying to understand thank you for the reply
 

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The faster the magnets spin around the stator coils, the higher the voltage that is induced - Honda no longer publishes the resistance values of the coils and instead specifies the peak voltage the coil needs to generate.

New specs are (measured with a peak voltage tester) about 3-5 volts for the pulse coil, 45-90 volts for the CDI charge coil, 100 volts min. from CDI unit to coil and 30 to 40,000 volts to the spark plug.

Yes - when you pull or push start the engine, the alternator spins faster and generates higher voltage. BTW - cranking speed for an electric starter is about 500 to 800 RPM - kick and recoil starting is about 800 to 1000 RPM and engine idle speed is generally set about 1200 RPM - some engines can idle down to 50 to 600 RPM, but they are utility engines - not performance engines. Now a weak flywheel could cause the same out as a weak coil, but flywheels don't fail as much as stators.

In 40 years of working on motorcycles and ATV's I have only replaced 3 flywheels for magnet failure and two was because the magnets became detached from the rotor stamping - only on was for a weak magnet.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The faster the magnets spin around the stator coils, the higher the voltage that is induced - Honda no longer publishes the resistance values of the coils and instead specifies the peak voltage the coil needs to generate.

New specs are (measured with a peak voltage tester) about 3-5 volts for the pulse coil, 45-90 volts for the CDI charge coil, 100 volts min. from CDI unit to coil and 30 to 40,000 volts to the spark plug.

Yes - when you pull or push start the engine, the alternator spins faster and generates higher voltage. BTW - cranking speed for an electric starter is about 500 to 800 RPM - kick and recoil starting is about 800 to 1000 RPM and engine idle speed is generally set about 1200 RPM - some engines can idle down to 50 to 600 RPM, but they are utility engines - not performance engines. Now a weak flywheel could cause the same out as a weak coil, but flywheels don't fail as much as stators.

In 40 years of working on motorcycles and ATV's I have only replaced 3 flywheels for magnet failure and two was because the magnets became detached from the rotor stamping - only on was for a weak magnet.
So a bad stator will that cause it to start occasionally when you kick it the first day. I had to tow the ATV it started every time after that when I kicked it then the next day I could not get it to start by kicking it and had to tow it to start it every time it was hit and miss.
 

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Best way I can relate this is; I had an 87 Kawasaki KX125 - I had completely rebuilt it as I gotten as a basket case - it was missing a coil and CDI box and the coil mount tabs were broken off the frame - when it was all back together I started it and started breaking it in - during break-in it fouled spark plugs rather frequently - this is normal as the oil mixture is rich and the carb was not going to be jetted correctly until after break-in and the oil mixture adjusted to a normal ratio - for the first month of racing, I still fouled plugs occasionally and it was sometimes hard to start. Once right in the middle of a race it just died, kinda like a fouled plug, but unlike a fouled plug there was no misfire, just dead. I changed the plug in the pit and it was extremely hard to start and once started did not run well. I just packed it in and called it a day. I worked on it all week checking connections and grounds and finding nothing suspicious. The engine started and ran fine when I got done, so it was fixed and I didn't know what I had fixed, but the problem was gone. Sunday I head off the the race, get there and can't get the bike started - I try ether and get a tow from a fellow rider and finally get the bike started - it seemingly ran fine and would restart on the first kick, so I start the race. Part way through the first heat it gets low on power and starts stalling finally dying and would not kick start. I pit and change the spark plug - when I remove the spark plug I inspect it to check my fuel mixture. To my surprise there are no electrodes - they are gone - the center electrode is burnt about 1/8 inch deep into the porcelain. I install a new plug and the engine starts but does not run right - again I call it quits. In desperation, since the entire bike is for all intents 'new' (the only part of the ignition not new is the stator and flywheel), I have the no longer available stator rewound. After installation, the bike starts better, has more power and no longer 'fouled' spark plugs. I was able the rejet the carb for maximum HP and started no longer finishing races, but winning races.

Stators can cause all kinds of runability problems.

A friend of mine had a no spark problem on his Honda XR200R - he used my meters and manuals and every part of his ignition tested bad except the stator - I told him to replace the stator and he argued it tested good - the only part that was bad was the stator - he found that out after he replaced everything else first.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This is excellent information thank you very very much his bike has been very frustrating for me. After checking everything on the bike again and triple check everything ohms out on the stator however I just will replace the stater and make sure that its eliminated. I tried to start the bike yesterday in the garage I kicked it over 6-10 times. It would not start. The Headlight pod illuminates as you kick it that’s what made me believe it was not the stator. However I really got nothing else it don’t start with starting fluid or nothing and if it don’t start with starting fluid that tells you right there there is no spark
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Replace the stator
OK pull the stater If I need to replace the fly wheel what size bolt do I need to pull that fly wheel I see two different sizes I just don’t know the length.

1 shows 16x1.5
Other shows 18x1.5
Anyone know the length
Looking to use the boat versus buying a fly wheel puller
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK I’m hearing two different size fly wheel puller’s for that 1988 TRX250X

16mm x1.5
20mm x 1.5

So which size do I need does anybody know
 

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Revised - Honda used two different flywheels
one was 16mm and the other was 20mm - use the puller that fits

Tool 07933-2160000 is 16mm
Tool 07933-3950000 is 20mm
 
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