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Discussion Starter #1
I've replaced the coil my old one barely tested 1 OHM, the new one tested about 4

I'm not getting anything to the spark plug, I replaced the CDI box, nothing
so I plugged the 2 prong to the CDI box & tested the the 4 prongs cumming out
of the CDI box I'm getting 12 volts out of 3 of them, my question now is,
I'm I supposed be getting 12 Volts out of all 4 prongs



Thank Robert
 

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Robert, according to the service manual; the first test is for 12 VDC on the blue wire with the white stripe at the CDI unit. The CDI unit is looking for AC voltage from the alternator, so there should be a minimum of 20 to 35 peak volts AC between the yellow wire with the white stripe and ground at the CDI unit when the engine is cranking or running. There should be 12 volts DC on the green wire at the CDI unit. Grounding the green wire (i.e. by putting the transmission in reverse) will limit the output of the CDI unit to limit the reverse speed and turn on the reverse light. There should be an AC voltage on the blue wire with the yellow stripe and ground, but the value can only be measured with a peak voltage tester and no value is listed in the service manual. Likewise, there should be about 150 peak volts between the blue wire with the yellow stripe and the green wire at the coil with the wires unplugged from the coil.

Let's address the coil ohms - at 68 degrees F (20 degrees C) the primary (the black and green terminals) is supposed to check .1 - .2 ohms. Testing the secondary of the coil is more involved; with the plug cap attached to the plug wire, measure between the terminal inside the cap and the green terminal on the coil - you should measure 8100 to 10k ohms. With the plug cap removed, the coil should ohm out at 3600 to 4500 ohms.

Just follow the step by step procedure in the service manual and you will probably be up and running in a short time.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There's no mention of the Black wire with Yellow strip, this one goes to the coil
I get nothing no matter what I try


blue wire with the white stripe I'm getting 9.9 V
yellow wire with the white stripe I'm getting 11 V when I turn the engine over it drops to 8 V
the green wire at the CDI unit I'm getting 11 V

the blue wire with the yellow stripe 11 V


the black and green terminals on the coil I get 1.1
With the plug cap removed 2.28

I don't know what part/parts are bad



Thanks Robert
 

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The black wire with the yellow stripe goes from the CDI unit to the coil. It will have a minimum 150 volt pulse each time the pulse generator tells the CDI to fire the spark plug. The pulse is milliseconds in length and has to be checked with an oscilloscope or a peak voltage tester.

What you are trying to do is fix something without having the right tools. It's like trying to to catch a mosquito with a fish net.

There's only 5 parts to the ignition system; alternator, pulse generator, CDI box. coil and wiring. Forget about the switches and concentrate on the basics.

You said you got a new coil and a new CDI - the coil is just a transformer and easily tested - where did you get the CDI box?

There are no tests for the CDI box other than replacing with a known good one. With an o-scope or a peak voltage tester you can measure and observe the inputs and outputs at the CDI box.

Precautions listed in the service manual: 1) Never disconnect any electrical connections when the engine is running 2) Apply Dielectric grease to all electrical connectors prior to reconnecting them to help seal out moisture 3) Make sure all electrical connectors are free of corrosion and are completely coupled to each other 4) Do not substitute another type of ignition coil 5) The DC-CDI unit is mounted within a rubber vibration isolator. Always be sure that the isolator is in place when installing the unit.

NOTE: Honda does not provide any service specifications for testing the DC-CDI unit. They provide only test procedures for the components within the ignition system.

First there should be 6 wires going to the CDI unit (4 wires in one plug and 2 wires in another plug.

You need 12 vdc on the blue wire with the white stripe (or black wire with a white stripe) at the CDI box (the wiring diagrams in the service manual indicate a black wire with a white stripe in one drawing and the b/w wire changing to a blue/white wire in another drawing) - if you have this, you have just eliminated the kill switches, fuses and battery as a problem.

You should have 12 vdc on the gray wire at the CDI box - if you do not have voltage on the gray wire, check the clutch diode in the wiring harness

There should be 18-45 vac on the yellow wire with the white stripe when the engine is cranking or running

There should be a pulse from the pulse generator on the blue wire with the yellow stripe

Dark green should have continuity to ground

The black wire with the yellow stripe goes to the coil

If the coil is new and the CDI is new that only leaves the pulse generator, alternator stator and the wiring

A friend of mine was troubleshooting a no spark issue on his 86 XR200-RFVCC many years ago. He used my meters and the Honda service manual - the only part that tested good was the stator, so he replaced the pulse generator; still no spark - he then replaced the coil; no spark - he replaced the CDI unit; no spark - he replaced the stator; SPARK!. He put the old parts back on one at a time, still had spark - it turned out the only part that tested good was the bad one.

Good luck, I think I have detailed the entire procedure to help you get your ignition system fixed. NOTE: all testing should be done with a new spark plug.

PS - in my previous post I mis-identified a the gray wire as a green wire
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The new one is smaller, same # of matching pins,
how do I tell if it's AC or DC?
The seller should advertise it as AC or DC - just having the same plugs and number of pins is irrelevant. Go back and look at the ad where you bought it from.

I checked the listing no info there, tried to trace the UPC code, no luck, it would be a waste of time to contact the seller, these sellers no nothing about there product, unlike me, I'm retired, & I know everything about the products I sale & 99% of what I sale is made in the USA.


I can wire a house but when it come to figuring out electrical problems I'm lost



Thank for all your help
Robert
 

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Great info. I came on here cuz I'm having the same issue with an 88 fourtrax 300 2x4. Am I safe to assume that all the info here would apply to my 88? Thanks!
 

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Great info. I came on here cuz I'm having the same issue with an 88 fourtrax 300 2x4. Am I safe to assume that all the info here would apply to my 88? Thanks!
Pretty much yes, but Honda changed the wiring to certain switches between 88 and 89 so some of the wiring colors are different - other than some wire color differences and the location of the switch in the circuit, they're the same. Same number of wires to the CDI, same values on each wire, same color of wires to the CDI unit and the same troubleshooting technique.
 

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Great info. I came on here cuz I'm having the same issue with an 88 fourtrax 300 2x4. Am I safe to assume that all the info here would apply to my 88? Thanks!

The parts I've purchased are for 1988 - 1993 I think your in the right place
Have you gotten anywhere with your spark issue? I picked up a stator for mine. Havent put it on yet. Soon I will. The p.o said he replaced the cdi and pulser coil, so I picked up a stator for $35. Figured it was a worth a try. I'll post results.
 

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So, I got the thing to fire up for 1 or 2 seconds on ether. And then I 'membered that there was no oil in it. Doh! I went and got a couple quarts and a gallon of gas. Put the oil in and put the tank on and put the gas in it. Cranked it and I get some backfiring and sputtering. I think the carb cleaning is next. This thing has been sitting for quite some time. The gas tank was a mess, but, I got it cleaned up. See what happens tommorow!
 

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There is two main reasons for a stator to look like that - either someone tried to charge a weak battery by running the engine instead of charging the battery on a charger or a rectifier failed and drained the battery through the stator. The charging system on the engine is not designed to charge so much as simply maintain the charge on the battery while operating.

What's that red (orange) shit on the gasket and the engine cover? I know what it is - the question is rhetorical. Silicone sealants should not be used anywhere on an engine unless specified by the manufacturer. Silicone is not gas or oil resistant. It will soften, break off, clog oil screens and start leaking. The best seal is a new gasket and clean dry surfaces. If a sealer is called for, you should use Honda Bond, Yamabond, Kawasaki Bond or Three Bond 1184. They are plastic, self leveling and can be cleaned off later with lacquer thinner and a rag.

Looks like you are getting close to having it running. Myself, I would have cleaned the carb before cleaning the fuel tank.
 

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There is two main reasons for a stator to look like that - either someone tried to charge a weak battery by running the engine instead of charging the battery on a charger or a rectifier failed and drained the battery through the stator. The charging system on the engine is not designed to charge so much as simply maintain the charge on the battery while operating.

What's that red (orange) shit on the gasket and the engine cover? I know what it is - the question is rhetorical. Silicone sealants should not be used anywhere on an engine unless specified by the manufacturer. Silicone is not gas or oil resistant. It will soften, break off, clog oil screens and start leaking. The best seal is a new gasket and clean dry surfaces. If a sealer is called for, you should use Honda Bond, Yamabond, Kawasaki Bond or Three Bond 1184. They are plastic, self leveling and can be cleaned off later with lacquer thinner and a rag.

Looks like you are getting close to having it running. Myself, I would have cleaned the carb before cleaning the fuel tank.
I'm gonna try to get the carb cleaned up tonight.

The silicone is temp until I get the thing running and I'll get the gasket for it. However, I use slicone all the time. Sometimes instead of a gasket. Never had any problems. :laugh:
 
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