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Hello, first post here. I suppose that is a result of 3 years of relatively trouble free ownership of this machine. I picked it up with a bad fuse and no fuel in the tank for $500. Probably the best $500 I've ever spent. It sees daily use on our small farm. I additionally lease 7,000 acres of mountain for wild pig hunting and use it there as well. Last week my daughter's POS Chinese quad was broken (as is normal) so I let her ride my Recon with our neighbor lady (daughter riding by herself, neighbor in her own machine). She's ridden it before, but not much. As she came back towards the house I could hear that she had the throttle pinned in 1st gear, I look out and there is a giant cloud of white smoke behind her. My fault, for turning get loose. The neighbor, who has a Recon 250es told me afterwards that she just puts hers in 3rd and leaves it there all the time. : Rolls eyes: Anyway, now sometimes when I start it I get a ridiculous amount of blue smoke, definitely quite a bit when I rev it, and sometimes I can look back and see a thick cloud when I'm accelerating. I suspect that I need rings. I'm capable of replacing them, I've really a free four stroke dirtbikes motors, but have a few questions.
1) how do I know whether or not to replace the jug vs having it honed, etc? (I've always just replaced)
2) how do I determine that my head/ valve seals are good?
3) what is a good brand of aftermarket piston, rings, etc. Don't want junk, don't want to pay for Honda, own either.
4) I understand that it's recommended to change the timing chain when getting in this far? Thoughts?
5) my one way bearing has been going out for a while, going to go ahead and replace it while I'm in there.
6) what else should I replace/inspect while the motor is town down?

Thanks in advance, I truly appreciate any insight.
 

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1) how do I know whether or not to replace the jug vs having it honed, etc? (I've always just replaced)
2) how do I determine that my head/ valve seals are good?
3) what is a good brand of aftermarket piston, rings, etc. Don't want junk, don't want to pay for Honda, own either.
4) I understand that it's recommended to change the timing chain when getting in this far? Thoughts?
5) my one way bearing has been going out for a while, going to go ahead and replace it while I'm in there.
6) what else should I replace/inspect while the motor is town down?

Thanks in advance, I truly appreciate any insight.
1) You have to inspect and measure the cylinder to determine it's condition. The cylinder can be bored to an oversize for about $60 to $90 and any piston that is available be it Wiseco, Vertex, Namura or OEM is OK, but stay away from the cheap Chinese counterfeit ripoff junk unless you are just looking to get it in good enough condition to flip it and get a different one. For my money, I would just get the OEM parts.

2) Again - inspection is the key, but valve seals is a no brainer - you have it apart, it gets new valve seals and during the disassembly to install the seals, you inspect and measure the valve stem to guide clearance then replace as necessary.

3) See 1)

4) Not on this model - if you want to pull the front cover and clutches to inspect the chain and possibly replace it, then go ahead, but it's not overhead cam and the chain does not wear as quickly.

5) What one way bearing are you talking about? The sprag clutch that allows for engine braking and bump starting, or the starter clutch?

6) Inspect the cam, rocker arms and connecting rod.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
5) What one way bearing are you talking about? The sprag clutch that allows for engine braking and bump starting, or the starter clutch?
Thanks for your reply. I'm referring to the sprag clutch, it's bad to start freewheeling while in steep grades. My understanding is that is a bad sprag clutch, correct?
 

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The sprag clutch (#29) is inside the centrifugal clutch and provides engine braking when decelerating and will allow for bump starting in gear. It mates to both #17 and #11 in the part breakdown below. If the sprag is bad, it typically requires replacing both 11 and 17 also, but not always - the parts have to be inspected to determine which parts need replaced for proper operation. Now, part 11 in discontinued and no longer available from Honda, but the same assembly was used in the 200 and covers all TRX200/250 from 1987 to 2002 and used ones are available.

Routine and regular oil changes using JASO rated oil will extend the life of all the clutch components. If you tear into it to repair the clutch, then you might also consider installing a new cam chain as you will be in the realm anyway.

4126

122100-HM8-A40
(replaces part #
22100-HB3-000)
CLUTCH OUTER$184.33$143.78Usually ships in 5-7 business days
122100-HM8-A40CLUTCH OUTER$184.33$143.78Usually ships in 5-7 business days
222111-HB3-771COVER, OIL FILTER$19.87$16.09Usually ships in 5-7 business days
322116-HB3-000GUIDE, CLUTCH (OUTER)$18.96$15.36Usually ships in 5-7 business days
422119-HF1-910GASKET, OIL FILTER COVER$10.20$7.853 In-Stock
522121-HM8-000CENTER, CLUTCH$61.20$47.74Usually ships in 5-7 business days
622201-166-000DISK, CLUTCH FRICTION$14.62$11.2610+ In-Stock
722321-KE8-000PLATE, CLUTCH$10.65$8.2010+ In-Stock
822350-HB3-000PLATE, CLUTCH PRESSURE$35.31$27.192 In-Stock
922361-HB3-840PLATE, CLUTCH LIFTER (NOT AVAILABLE)$11.09$8.98Usually ships in 5-7 business days
1022362-KK0-000COLLAR, CLUTCH LIFTER$21.47$17.39Not Shipping
1122400-HM8-000PLATE ASSY., DRIVE$165.71$127.60Not Shipping
1222401-KE7-000
(replaces part #
22401-HB3-010)
SPRING, CLUTCH$3.51$2.984 In-Stock
1222401-KE7-000SPRING, CLUTCH$3.51$2.984 In-Stock
1322463-HB3-770SPRING, CLUTCH$3.31$2.8110+ In-Stock
1422470-HB3-770SPRING, CONE DISK$11.00$8.91Usually ships in 5-7 business days
1522480-HM8-000WASHER (48X92X1.6) (NOT AVAILABLE)$11.07$8.97Usually ships in 5-7 business days
1622481-HM8-A40
(replaces part #
22481-HB3-770)
WASHER (48X100X1.2)$8.82$6.793 In-Stock
1622481-HM8-A40WASHER (48X100X1.2)$8.82$6.793 In-Stock
1722500-HM8-A40
(replaces part #
22500-HS0-A00)
DRUM, CLUTCH (23T)$71.67$64.864 In-Stock
1722500-HM8-A40
(replaces part #
22500-HS0-A00)
DRUM, CLUTCH (23T)$71.67$64.864 In-Stock
1822535-HM8-306
(replaces part #
22535-HM8-305)
WEIGHT SET, CLUTCH$69.05$53.172 In-Stock
1822535-HM8-306WEIGHT SET, CLUTCH$69.05$53.172 In-Stock
1953044-HA7-670WASHER, STEERING PIVOT$6.51$5.86Usually ships in 5-7 business days
2090001-HA5-000BOLT, HEX. (6X28)$3.15$2.68Email me when available
2190201-HB3-000NUT, SPECIAL (16MM)$6.51$5.013 In-Stock
2290235-HB3-000NUT, SPECIAL (18MM)$8.75$6.74Email me when available
2390432-KE5-000WASHER (18MM)$4.29$3.653 In-Stock
2490452-147-003WASHER, THRUST (12MM) (TOYO)$3.02$2.72Usually ships in 5-7 business days
2490452-147-006WASHER, THRUST (12MM) (THOMPSON)$3.02$2.571 In-Stock
2590452-413-000WASHER, THRUST (20MM)$2.15$1.94Usually ships in 5-7 business days
2690605-HM8-000CIRCLIP (7MM)$1.78$1.5110+ In-Stock
2791001-147-003BEARING, NEEDLE (12MM) (NTN)$10.55$8.1210+ In-Stock
2891012-KF0-000CLIP, NEEDLE THRUST BEARING (12MM)$2.56$2.182 In-Stock
2991101-958-003CLUTCH, ONE-WAY$127.33$98.044 In-Stock
3095701-06008-00BOLT, FLANGE (6X8)$2.55$2.1710+ In-Stock
 

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really useful info here, thanks for your reply. I've had kinda similar situation, my oldie was too obsolete for the work she was doing over and over again. So, I decided to replace it with a new one, buuut... this is the exact point where the problems began to appear. The most significant one was money, their lack to be accurate. I decided to get a loan from https://credit-10.com/fi/bondora-luotto/ and finally get a new one)) Never regretted it.
 
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