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2000 400ex won't start HELP

3579 Views 4 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  Here 2 help
I have a 440ex that was running pretty good but it was running lean. It had a 170 dynojet and 38 pilot. I changed it to a Kiehin 180 main and 42 pilot. Put it together and fired up great and ran great. Had it on for 10 seconds and gas was pouring out the overflow so I shut it off. Took it apart and the float needle came out so i fixed that and put it back together and wouldn't start. Fouled the plug so put a new one in and tried to fire but wouldn't start. When I was putting the bowl back on the carb I heard some noises. (Shouldn't force anything) Now it won't start. Did somethin in the carb break because when I hook the fuel line up and give it some throttle pumps no gas comes out but the bowl is full??? Pilot jet is not clogged. So I looked more into the timing and at TDC the mark is straight up the mark on the right is up a little above the head and the one on the left you can't see. Is that far enough out of time to keep it from starting?? I'm new to the forum and don't how to post a pic of the timing or I would

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The cam timing has nothing to do with starting and running unless it's so far off that the valves hit the piston. The cam timing has to do with performance. Your cam timing is off due to a worn cam chain and the chain should be replaced. The red goo on the surface of the head is not good either. The gasket is supposed to be put on a clean dry surface - NO SEALER REQUIRED! (unless the head is screwed up by previous Micky Mouse mechanics)

The spark timing is controlled by the flywheel. Provided the flywheel key is not sheared and the piston is at TDC when the flywheel T mark is lined up, then it's just a matter of finding what ingredient of the recipe is missing or incorrect and fixing it.

Take the carb off to find out what the problem is. If the engine was running lean (and ran lean long enough), you might have piston damage. Check the compression. I just took apart a Big Bore motor that had the top two rings and ring lands shattered from running lean. A new piston and big bore gasket set fixed the motor, but it took several hours and many carb removals and installations to get the jetting right.
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Ok I didn't mess with the timing and put the valve cover back on as well as peeling the Orange shit off the previous owner put on. Now it leaks oil from the front of the valve cover so what can I do to stop that. Now I lossened the pilot jet a turn put everything back on went to start it and battery was almost dead. So put the charger on it and bam it started, but it now idles extremely high until I put the choke on, why is that?? Also it is pouring gas out the overflow so I took the bowl back off and the pilot jet is tight still and the floats are working and the float needle is in the correct spot so why is it overflowing?? Is the little squessy part of the needle suppose to go up where you can see it?
Thanks
Is this normal where the nut sits for the valve spring?

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You really need a service manual. The rubber tip of the float needle goes into the seat while the end with the spring loaded pin is pushed on by the float. If it idles high, turn the idle speed screw counter clockwise to slow it down. If it leaks oil, either the head is damaged, the head cover is damaged, the bolts are not tightened correctly or there is a fault that I cannot tell you about because I cannot see it and I am not the one doing the work.

In reference to the picture? I do not understand what you are trying to ask. The tappet adjuster cap is not screwed in all the way. You should not be able to see the o-ring. And the cap does not have to be real tight. The o-ring is the seal and compresses as the cap is tightened. It only takes about 10 ft. lbs. of torque to secure the cap with a new o-ring.
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