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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The flathead inner bolt is rusted solid to the 14 mm jam nut. I can loosen the jam nut but the adjuster won't budge. Can I turn the two all the way out together using the jam nut or is the inside of the adjuster bolt connected to something that will break or bend if I try this? I don't have a manual or diagram to see what I am dealing with so any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jerry.
 

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Welcome to the forum.

Looking at a TRX350TM - the adjuster bolt is flanged on the inside of the case - it has RH threads and can be loosened until the flange seats inside the case at which point either the nut will break loose or the adjuster bolt will break - if the nut breaks loose, clean everything and install a new nut. Turn the bolt clockwise until you feel it contact the clutch release - once contact is made, back the bolt out 1/4 to 1/2 turn and tighten the lock nut. This will set the release of the manual clutch which is operated by the shift shaft. If quicker release is desired, only back the screw out about 1/8 to 1/4 turn - if quicker engagement is desired, back the screw out 1/2 to 5/8 turn.

Adjustment is correct if the transmission can be shifted into gear with out creeping when the gearshift lever held either up or down while accelerating the engine. If it is a TE model (electric shift), the emergency shift lever will need to be installed and operated to check the clutch adjustment.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for getting back so quickly! From the diagram, I see that #23 is the jam nut that I can turn counterclockwise and that it is threaded on and rusted to #13. Is the forward end of #13 slotted for a flat screw driver adjustment and is the other threaded into #12 or does it just make contact? So I just keep turning the jam nut and bolt cc until the flange on #13 fetches up on the inside of the case, keep spraying and gently turning cc to break the rust bond? My problem is the bike shifts really hard into second and third gears, so maybe I'm barking up the wrong tree with this adjustment. What do you think? Thanks again for your help, much appreciated!! Jerry
 

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After checking one I currently have apart I have to correct myself (I thought the screw was threaded into the cover) - 13 is threaded into 12 (21 is an o-ring) - the threaded portion with the screwdriver slot simply passes through the hole in the cover - the end of the screw that threads into the 'ramp' piece (#12) is RH threaded - turning the screw counterclockwise drives the ramp into the clutch release actuator - if you turn the bolt with the nut trying to loosen or remove it will result in the clutch going into full release and ultimately result in the screw (#13) completely UN-threading from 12 and the cover will have to be removed to re-engage the two parts.

All in all, you will probably have to remove the front cover from the engine to facilitate a proper repair. You may have to cut the nut off the adjuster screw and possibly have to replace both the adjuster screw and nut.

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No - hard shifting is usually a centrifugal clutch or engine idle speed issue - what are you experiencing that you are referring to a "hard shifting"?

If you can hold the gearshift up or down and achieve full release, the problem is not in the manual clutch which is what the adjuster screw is adjusting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No problem shifting into Reverse or 1st gear. When I toe up into 2nd (or 2nd to 3rd) something feels like it is not meshing properly. There is no grinding or noise, you just have to keep toeing up until it clicks in. Down shifting is not a problem. My gut feeling is that it is a mechanical issue in the gearcase linkage. It looks like a complete teardown project for this winter! In the meantime I'll add more padding to the top of my boot and drive it until the snow flies. Thanks for your help and info, Jerry
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It is when I am driving. When cold, I start it with the choke on then push it down, it idles between 1280 and 1320 rpm. Once warmed up it idles 1420 - 1440. Once it is warmed up, I shift into 1st and just get the bike rolling and I can shift into 2nd and then into 3rd easily. If I accelerate to 10 mph or so in 1st and try to shift to 2nd sometimes it will, sometimes it won't. Same with 2nd to 3rd. No problem 3 - 4 or 4 - 5 or downshifting down to neutral.
 

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Are you letting off the throttle when shifting or just holding the throttle steady? I presume you let off the throttle. Try holding the throttle steady - when you shift you will notice the engine increases in RPM as the shift lever is operated - when the shift is complete and if you let pressure off the shift lever gradually you will notice the engine speed decrease and feel the clutch engage as vehicle speed increases.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Yesterday I turned the adjuster nut and stuck bolt back in the same number of turns that I had turned it out. It didn't seem to want to snug up, so I just left it there and the bike seemed to work fine but with the same hard shift. This morning I tried holding the throttle in slightly and it shifted smoothly into both 2nd and 3rd. I didn't really notice any change in RPMs but it shifted great. Thanks so much for your help, Jerry.
 
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