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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Howdy Fellas,

New here, as like many, because I need help! I purchased a very rode hard put away wet '01 Recon and am in the process of diagnosing the no spark condition. New cdi box and ignition coil did not give me spark. If I am testing correctly I am only getting 7 volts directly from the black/red wire from the stator when cranking. I get 0 volts from the Blue/Yellow wire from the pulse generator when cranking. I did disconnect the black wire from the cdi box to try and eliminate a kill switch problem, but was wondering how to definitively test the kill switch? Thanks for any help!
 

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Sorry for the late response as I am sure you want to get your quad going ASAP, but I was involved in another venture that I couldn't get away from.

In answer as to how to definitively test your kill switches; with the black/white wire disconnected from the CDI unit - connect one lead of an ohm meter to the wiring harness side black/white wire and the other lead to ground - with either the handlebar switch or the main switch set to "off", you should have zero ohms (or very close to zero) of resistance - with both switches set to on, you should have infinite ohms of resistance (open circuit - no continuity).

Since you have replaced the coil and the CDI unit and disconnected the b/w/wire, the only other possible problems are the exciter coil, pulse coil and wiring.

The output voltage values given in the service manual are peak voltage. Peak voltage can only be measured with an oscilloscope or a very expensive multi-meter.

A simple test is to test the continuity of the coils by checking resistance of each coil. Check the pulser coil by connecting an ohm meter between blue/yellow wire and ground (or the green wire) - check the exciter coil by checking between the black/red wire and ground. If you have continuity, check output by setting the multi-meter to "AC" volts and crank the engine. You are not looking for a specific value, but just that there is an output. If both coils have an output, check the continuity of the wiring harness to find broken wires or shorts to ground.

Food for thought; a friend of mine used my shop and tools to check the ignition system of his 200. Knowing the wiring was good he tested all the components "by the book". The only part that tested good was the stator. So he replaced (starting with the cheapest first), the spark plug, plug cap, coil, CDI box and pulse generator and still did not have spark. Finally he replaced the only part that tested good, the stator, and he got spark again. As a final test, he changed back the CDI box, coil and plug cap and found out the old parts were still good. He did not change out the pulse generator because he would have to drain the oil and risk needing a new gasket. It wasn't worth the cost, but he suspected the pulser was good too.

Hope this helps and good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks "Here to Help",

Decided to replace stator and pulse generator, but I am having great difficulty removing the crank bolt behind the recoil unit. I have a fairly hefty impact gun running at 120 psi and it won't budge. Checked engine rotation and it rotates counter-clockwise looking at it from the rear, so I thought is the bolt a reverse thread? I locked the engine using a large pry bar against the manual start pulley basket and using a 2 foot cheater bar and I cannot move it! I am starting to round the edges off the bolt head from my futile struggles. Any suggestions?
 

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It's a RH thread and getting the bolt out is not usually a problem. I use a 6 point impact socket, a 1/2 impact gun and 150psi of air. Try impacting it right, then left, then right and then left again. Worst case; drill down the center of the bolt with about a 1/4 inch drill bit no more than about 1/2 inch - then break the head of the bolt off the shank by using the impact gun. Once the recoil cage is off and you remove the rear cover of the engine, you can lock the crankshaft by pouring kerosene into the spark plug hole at a point where the piston is traveling up on the compression stroke - then you can use vice grips or other implement of destruction to unscrew the bolt from the crankshaft
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks!

I got the crank bolt out - I rounded the head off and then took my dremel cutting wheel and cut a flat notch out and used a long steel rod and a hand held sledge hammer to get her turning - worked great! Anyways, here is another question - Should there be crankcase oil inside of the upper case where the stator is housed? Oil came out from the lower chamber where the gear shift lever goes through, but I also noticed a good amount of oil in the upper chamber - is this normal?
 
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