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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone,

Fairly new to quads, but not riding. My family has owned and has been riding ATC's since 1985.

I just picked up a 2002 TRX250EX for my daughter and have a few questions.
First thing, changed all the fluids,cleaned the air filter and replaced the spark plug. All the fluids were fairly dirty. I may even let it idle for a bit and change the oil again.

Back to my question. When I put it in 1st gear or reverse the quad really wants to start rolling. You have to hold it in place with the brake. I turned the idle down, because it was a little high and it still will creep. Is this normal??

All of my semi-auto ATC's will idle in gear and not roll forward (or backwards if in Reverse).

I tried adjusting the clutch (looser or increase slip) and it didn't seem to make any difference. It will go into gear fine but it is a bitch to get back out of gear and into neutral. You have to be at a slow roll and then it will kick out of gear.

I have heard dirty engine oil will cause this problem sometimes. Any truth to that, or does it need a new clutch? I was shocked when I couldn't really make a clutch adjustment that made a difference. I figured 2 turns on the crew one way or another would of done something.

Any input is greatly appreciated.
 

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There are 2 clutches - a centrifugal and a manual - the manual clutch has an adjustment for the clutch release which is operated by the shift lever. The adjustment controls the release of the manual clutch to facilitate shifting. You can test the operation of the clutch by operating the shift lever (either up or down) and holding it. This will hold the clutch in release and the vehicle should not move while the engine is running. Slowly letting off the shift lever will engage the clutch and the vehicle will start to move. If the clutch is improperly adjusted either the clutch will slip (causing clutch failure) or the clutch will not release completely (causing clutch drag) which will result in the vehicle wanting to move while in gear and the shift lever held either up or down.

That being explained - your problem is caused by the centrifugal clutch (which is not adjustable). Either the idle is too high, the oil viscosity is too heavy or more likely, the clutch has one or more broken springs.

The good news is that the springs are replaceable. The bad news is the front cover has to be removed for service. Typical repair is about $250 depending on the shop labor rate and whether or not there are other problems exposed when the unit is opened up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info. I'm running ATV 10w40 so I don't think the oil is the issue. Removing the cover and pulling the clutch doesn't seem like too hard of a job. I have done it on a ATC70 before. I would assume it is similar. Are there any special tools needed? Clutch puller etc?
 

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Honda calls for several special tools, but most can be done without. The one tool that is maybe necessary, is the centrifugal clutch puller 07933-HB3000A ($260.00 from Honda). You also need to replace the "one time use" clutch nut 90235-HB3-000 (about $8.50). You might get by without the puller, but if it is too tight to pry off with gentle force.... Maybe you can get a local Honda dealer to pull it off for you.

The springs (if you find that you need them) is part number 22463-HB3-770 - they cost about $3.20 and there is 3 of them. Get it apart first to find out what you need.

As to oil? You should be using 10W40 JASO rated MA or MA2. If you are using regular motor oil purchased at Walmart or Autozone, use an oil with an API rating of SJ or lower. SG, SH, SF and SE are all good. Certain synthetics (like Mobil 1) can be rated higher than SJ and still be good oil to use. Honda does not recommend any oil heavier than 10W40, but if you ride in an area with ambient temperatures above 90 degrees, you might use a 20W50, just expect a bit more clutch drag when the engine is cold. Myself - I use a full synthetic 15W50. It causes the engine to consume some oil (so slick it gets past the rings), but I get a bit more power and a higher degree of engine protection.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
All good info. I really appreciate it.I have not actually rode it but about 10 feet so the jury is still out. I hope to be able to run it and get it warmed up and really see what is going on. I will keep this thread updated and chances are I will have more questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Just thinking out loud here while I'm stuck at work. If In fact the springs are shot, or broken it would allow the weights to get "thrown out"quicker, thus making it creep at an idle. This would also make sense as to why nothing happens when I try to adjust the adjusting screw. Right??
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Update... I pulled the cover off and made a tool to hold the clutch while I removed the nut. After the nut was off I lightly taped on the clutch housing in hopes that I wouldn't have to use a puller. Not wanting to damage or bend anything I decided that wasn't going to work. I dug in my toolbox and decided to give my harmonic balancer puller a try. That puller worked like a champ! I was relived that I wasn't going to have to spend big money on the Honda puller. After I got the clutch in my hand and on the bench it became very obvious I had found the problem.....1 broken spring. Now what I want to know is where did the end of this spring go? It wasn't lodged in the clutch or anywhere in the cover. Should I be concerned?



I'm thinking I should replace all 3 springs since I have gone to all this trouble to take it apart. I would hate to just replace the 1 and have another break in the near future. Thoughts? Also, how and why do these springs break? It seems to be a common problem. Bad batch of springs 10-15 years ago? Should I not put "Honda" brand springs back in it?

Thanks!
BG
 

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The piece of spring is laying in the bottom of the crankcase somewhere. Sometimes you find it (or them) in the clutch cover. sometimes they have migrated deeper into the engine. You might get lucky and fish it out with with a small extendable magnet. If not, it will just lay there and not hurt anything unless you capsize the quad and it lays upside down for a while.

Yes, replace all three - it's cheap insurance and use Honda springs. A different spring will change the operation of the clutch either engaging early or late.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Another UPDATE: My local dealership had to order the springs and they came in yesterday. Last night I began the re-assembly process and everything went smoothly. I had a little issue getting the clutch seated back in the drum and 1 way bearing, but after a few min or slowly rotating it I got it to fully seat with out messing up the bearing. The other pain in the ass was scraping the old gasket off the case, but I eventually got it all off with the assistance of a razor blade. Case went on with no issues, added oil, adjusted the clutch adjustment screw (since I jacked with it so much before I tore it down) and fired it up. I let it idle for about a min and shut it off to check oil level, all good. I fired it back up and clicked it into 1st and it didnt creep fwd at an idle! Then I tried reverse and it shifted like butter. It was 10pm at night, so I was only able to go about 10 ft fwd and backward in the garage, but all seems to be ok. I will take it for a quick lap this afternoon but I'm fairly certain the problem is fixed.

Thanks again for all the help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I must be getting old because I don't remember having to use anything special to compress the clutch to attach the springs. Let me think a min on that.

My clutch is still working like a champ. Going on 2 years and no issues.
 

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Thanks for the info. I'm running ATV 10w40 so I don't think the oil is the issue. Removing the cover and pulling the clutch doesn't seem like too hard of a job. I have done it on a ATC70 before. I would assume it is similar. Are there any special tools needed? Clutch puller etc?
I don't know about the clutch, but you should run MOTORCYCLE oil. Not the regular car oil.
 
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