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Discussion Starter #1
I’ll start with the facts and then add what I believe to be the problem.

Quad was running perfect yesterday. Went to start it today, won’t start. Assumed it was a hard cold start, hooked the battery to a tender for while. Still won’t start. Rolled it around the yard in neutral to bring it closer to my shed. Kept trying, still won’t start. Replaced Battery, stator, cdi , ignition coil, and rectifier less than a year ago. I tested the batter today just to be sure and I know the other parts are not the problem.

Tried starting in gear with clutch, tried in neutral, and then I finally tried to do a rolling start. This is where I noticed the problem with the clutch, when in gear without holding the clutch, the quad locks (normal expected behavior). When I pull the clutch while it’s in gear, the quad does not roll freely. (Quad still not starting). I move my attention the clutch and shifting issue. It shifts freely and easily between all gears( including reverse) but when the clutch is pulled the quad will not roll as expected. I noticed the parking brake and reverse lever don’t spring back like they’re supposed to.

I suspect the clutch plates are frozen/stuck because it’s been between 30 and 40 degrees and the quad sits outside. I also suspect the cables are frozen from the cold. It is possible that I didn’t try long enough to get the quad started. If it doesn’t rain I will play around with it tomorrow

my questions To the group:
1. If the plates are stuck, would this keep the quad from starting?
2. What minor tests can I run (without tearing the bike apart) to see if the plates are stuck, clutch is bad, levers etc.
I’ve read other posts of people who have stuck plates but their quads start and they can free the plates by jamming into gear.
 

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1. If the plates are stuck, would this keep the quad from starting?
2. What minor tests can I run (without tearing the bike apart) to see if the plates are stuck, clutch is bad, levers etc.
I’ve read other posts of people who have stuck plates but their quads start and they can free the plates by jamming into gear.
1. No - it might prevent starting in gear with the clutch pulled in just due to the drag of oil film between the manual clutch plates. When was the oil last changed, what brand and viscosity oil was put in?

2. Test? If you put it in gear, pull the clutch in and can roll the quad without the engine turning over, then the plates are not stuck. If the clutch cable is a problem, it causes clutch slipping, not sticking - lubricant is usually the biggest issue.

3) Not starting, compression 120 or better (throttle held wide open), spark, spark at the right time, fuel mixed with air in the right ratio and it will run - law of physics govern that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
1. No - it might prevent starting in gear with the clutch pulled in just due to the drag of oil film between the manual clutch plates. When was the oil last changed, what brand and viscosity oil was put in?

2. Test? If you put it in gear, pull the clutch in and can roll the quad without the engine turning over, then the plates are not stuck. If the clutch cable is a problem, it causes clutch slipping, not sticking - lubricant is usually the biggest issue.

3) Not starting, compression 120 or better (throttle held wide open), spark, spark at the right time, fuel mixed with air in the right ratio and it will run - law of physics govern that.
oil was changed in the fall for cold storage. I always run some Lucas oil stabilizer in it, for storage I added a little more,( maybe an 1/2 quart total). Since you ask about viscosity, I suspect this might be the issue since it’s been colder in the recent weeks and the Lucas oil is thicker than the g4n I run. Seeing the clutch is lubricated with the motor oil it would explain why it’s sticking. I was able to break it free with the help of a friend but it still won’t start.


I usually run it once a week or once every other week but it’s been too cold ( 20-30 degrees). I can usually start it in the colder temps by jumping it but I wonder if the Lucas oil is getting too thick.

The carb might need a little fine tuning. When I last ran it a week ago, I turned the idle up while riding (40ish degrees), might need to adjust it again.
 

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Dump the oil, forget about oil stabilizer, put in 5w20 JASO oil (mineral or synthetic - doesn't matter, it's your choice) if you plan on running in temps below 30*F - make sure the valves have adequate clearance when cold - an extra thousandths or two won't hurt anything, it's a lack of clearance when cold that contributes to hard starting and use non-ethanol fuel (alcohol raises octane because it burns slow, but it's also harder to ignite) - don't be afraind to use starting fluid on the initial start-up - when it's cold, you need something that will vaporize when cold - it's part of the difference between summer and winter fuel - winter fuel has a higher content of aromatics that vaporize at low temperatures.
 
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