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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2003 TRX250EX Axle rebuild

Hey Guys...I am in the middle of replacing all of the bearings and Seals on the axle. I wanted to see if anyone can show me any of there videos of replacing there bearings bc what I see don't line up with the instructions. (all the videos I searched never showed the side in question).... The oil seal and the bearing on the brake drum are replaced but the other side where it shows XBG130, RC102 and XSE180 in the below diagram doesn't. I do see the actual bearings from it blowing up laying there but not the actual ring of the bearing. Only thing i see is the seal. Thanks


 

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The only difference might be that the Honda bearing is not sealed and the one on Amazon is sealed. The common number is 60/32 and is about $20 at most bearing suppliers, however the Honda part is 2 bearings in one package. If you want to use this bearing, get two of them. You can get 2 of them on Ebay for $20 with free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-91054...K46-/121382781174?hash=item1c42fa40f6&vxp=mtr
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks for the quick response...I only need that one bearing. So I can order just the one...If it comes with 2 then I can have one for backup.

I saw a youtube video of someone removing the seal around the bearings. Is it worth doing that to match the Honda ones?
 

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NO! It's better to leave the seals in place. The bearing is loaded with grease at the factory and the seals keep the grease in and the dirt out. I always use sealed bearings except in places where the bearing is lubed by other means. In the transmission the bearings are either splash or pressure lubed. In 2 stroke engines, the crank bearings are lubed by the oil mixed with the gas. I have built special Hi-Perf 2 strokes and used sealed bearings on the crank. They wear out faster, but it is a cost of racing.

I have seen a lot of "novice" mistakes also. I have seen many Yamaha Blasters and TRX400's that have had grease zerks installed on the rear axle housings. Normally this doesn't hurt anything, but here are the mistakes: 1) the machine has open bearings and the pressure of the grease pushes the normal seals out - the grease gets out and the dirt gets in; 2) the bearings have a seal on one side - either greasing pushes the one seal off the bearing or the bearings are installed with the one seal inward and the seal prevents grease from getting into the bearing; 3) the bearings are sealed on both sides and the grease only fills the cavity between the bearings doing absolutely nothing other than keeping water and dirt out of the space between the bearings.

Any place a bearing has no means of being re-lubed, use a sealed bearing. In your case, removing the seal from the inward side of the bearing means that any final drive oil that might escape the seal on the LH side of the unit would be trapped in the space between the drive unit and the LH bearing. That oil would lube the bearing, but it is contrary to the design.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Never got a response that you replied...Thank you.

I have replaced all the bearings and seals on the drum brake side. But the side thats circled, the 2 bearings blew up in there and the outer side of the bearing is literally fused in its place and can't get them out. Any tips/tricks on how to remove them?

 

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The trick I use is to use a mig welder to run a bead of weld all the way around the inside of the outside race. The bead of weld gives you something to drive against and draws on the race, shrinking it as it cools and making it easier to get out. Sometimes I find a washer or cut a circle of steel to weld to the inside of the race. The washer just gives you a larger surface to drive against. If you have to, take it to a welding shop and ask them to get the races out for you.
 
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