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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This kick starter was jammed up. Meaning that I would push it forward and it would stop. Wouldn't go any further. I took the spark plug out and put it in gear and rolled it and the engine turns over fine. I pulled the side case and the first thing I found was that someone had screwed with this thing and the ratchet spring, #5 was in between the gear, #2 and the ratchet, #4. So, I thought that was the problem but no it's not. I removed the clutch/basket to check the idler gear, #6 and it checks out. I measured the i.d and according the manual it's within service limit. I then checked the spindle,#10 and pinion gear,#2 and they are in spec, although, barely. If I turn the primary gear with a socket while pushing the kicker it will cycle thru. If I remove the clutch basket and cycle the kicker it works perfectly. But, when I put the basket back on and it puts a load on the gears then it jams up. I thought that maybe that the first idler gear assembly was wobbling bit and causing a bind, so I put the side case on with a few screws and it does the same. If I turn the crank with and allen wrench thru the hole in the side case, then it will cycle thru. All of the bearings that are involved in the whole assemble are all good. Nice and smooth.
 

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I suspect a problem with the clutch, but it might be something else entirely, like the cam chain tensioner (I'll explain as we get deeper into this).

One of the hardest to solve is one created by someone who didn't know what they were doing.

So when did this problem first rear it's ugly head? BTW, I could not get your pics to open.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I suspect a problem with the clutch, but it might be something else entirely, like the cam chain tensioner (I'll explain as we get deeper into this).

One of the hardest to solve is one created by someone who didn't know what they were doing.

So when did this problem first rear it's ugly head? BTW, I could not get your pics to open.
Thanks H2H. I decided to put it back and put some oil in it and see if I could bump start it and see what the engine sounds like. So after all that, I kicked it with my foot and it works fine. I guess while I was working and checking it with my hand, I didn't have the ooomph in my hand to cycle the kicker. My bad. The pics were a fiche of the kicker mechanism. The ratchet spring was put in wrong by someone else and that was the problem all along. I put a new plug and oil and filter in it and I'll see if I can fire it tomorrow. ONe more thing. I put engine oil in until it was almost to the H on the sight glass. Then after kicking it a few times to try and start it, there was no more oil visible in the sight glass. I just dumped the rest of the quart in it (about 1/3) and it brought it back up to the H.
 

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Oil capacity is .82 qt after draining and .87 with a new filter - I don't think an extra one tenth of a quart will hurt anything and the level might drop slightly after the engine is run and all the oil galleries are filled and purged of air. Congratulations on the starter, I always work with the spark plug removed and never thought about the possibility that you were just turning against compression.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I tried to start the thing and with a shot of ether I get a backfire once every few kicks. So it has spark, but I can't get it to start. So, my next step........check compression and if that's good, then check the valve clearance?
 

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If the compression is good, then the valves do not need adjusted - if you don't have a new spark plug, get one (any brand other than Champion) and see where that gets you.

If the compression is low, then check the valve clearance - no need to adjust the valves unless there is insufficient valve clearance - if the valve clearance is good and the compression is low, then do a cylinder leak down to find out where the compression is going
 

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Discussion Starter #7
If the compression is good, then the valves do not need adjusted - if you don't have a new spark plug, get one (any brand other than Champion) and see where that gets you.

If the compression is low, then check the valve clearance - no need to adjust the valves unless there is insufficient valve clearance - if the valve clearance is good and the compression is low, then do a cylinder leak down to find out where the compression is going
Welp, compression came in at around 20 psi. The intake valve clearance is suppose to be .006 and I can't get a .002 in it. But like I said earlier, when i drained the oil not much came out. 1 cup not more than 2. So look at the camshaft and the scoring.Not good. I think my next move is to shim the intakes and see if it starts. Or, should I just pull the head and see what the damage is?
 

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Yeah - the cam and rocker arm will need replaced, but as to shimming, just put thin shims in and don't concern yourself with 'correct' clearance, you just need clearance - then recheck the compression - should 120+ - won't even fire if less than 90 - if the compression can't be brought up, then tear it down to see how bad it is.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yeah - the cam and rocker arm will need replaced, but as to shimming, just put thin shims in and don't concern yourself with 'correct' clearance, you just need clearance - then recheck the compression - should 120+ - won't even fire if less than 90 - if the compression can't be brought up, then tear it down to see how bad it is.
Ya, it's messed up! I pulled the cylinder and here it is. That's a nickasil plated cyl isn't it? The piston and rings look pretty good actually. IDK if they're saveable with just a replate of the cyl. and new rings. And also the bottom end?????? Like I said, it was run out of oil. Not sure how much he wants to spend on a 15 year old quad. It's in nice shape, tho. Damn 4 strokes! :wink2:
 

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Yes, its a plated cylinder.

The cylinder can be repaired for appx. $250 - I send them to US Chrome in Wisconsin - got to send it with a piston when it goes to them.

That wear is indicative of one or both of two things - dirty air (bad, improperly sealed, improperly serviced air filter or a K&N) and or dirty oil.

Let me know if there's anything I can do.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yes, its a plated cylinder.

The cylinder can be repaired for appx. $250 - I send them to US Chrome in Wisconsin - got to send it with a piston when it goes to them.

That wear is indicative of one or both of two things - dirty air (bad, improperly sealed, improperly serviced air filter or a K&N) and or dirty oil.

Let me know if there's anything I can do.
Ok, thanks. It had a new K&N filter on it when it got here. No telling what was on it previously. And dirty oil....ya what little came out was very black.
I've dealt with Millenium Technologies in the past. I think they're in WI also.
 

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I have accounts with both MT and USC - MT is in Plymouth, WI and USC is in Fondulac, WI - My daughter lives in Sun Prairie which is on route 151 between Madison and Fondulac. I have toured USC and know some of the employees, so I lean toward USC, but they do comparable work and charge about the same - I just favor USC
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I sent the cylinder off to Millenium yesterday for an exchange. I sent the old piston too, cuz I think it's useable with new rings, and they said they would check it out for me.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
M.T is closed all week, I think. It's gonna be a slow progression. But, maybe it'll give me chance to pull the engine out of the fourtrax 250 that I have that's stuck in R. Still haven't got to that one. LOL
 
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