Factory setting of the fuel screw (not an air screw) is 2 1/4 turns out from lightly seated
It controls the amount of fuel mixed with a set amount of air metered through the passages in the carb body - turning it out makes it richer and turning it in makes it leaner - 4 to 6 turns out and it is not doing anything - what ever fuel is metered into the idle circuit at that point is all pilot jet - adjusting the fuel screw has to be done with the engine at normal operating temp with fresh fuel (93 octane non-alcohol blend is preferred)
I would suspect the carb - sounds like it's trying to idle on the main jet - why did you clean the carb? What was it "boiled" it in? If it was water, then it did nothing except make it hot
The screw I'm talking about takes special tool on bottom side of the carb. Boiled in solvent About 130 degrees . Looked brand new when we took it out. Was filthy from Couple years of sitting. Varnish in it. I'd post pics if I knew how. The screw in question was set a touch over 4. We put it back to same location because that's where degrees.takes special tool my buddy had. Gotta get me one. . Any free pdf floating around on these bikes? Thanks for the info.
Did you have to replace any parts? My guess the accelerator pump was junk as well as all the rubber parts - the crap out of the main jet cap was evidence of alcohol damage - if people would just turn the petcock off and run the carb dry carbs would almost never have to be cleaned
The manual you want is not free from any site that I know of, but I can email you a pdf copy of the one I have - just PM me your email address
Pics definitely before. Lol. It runs great after cleaning. Only issue was having to turn idle screw all the way in. Is real cold didn't know if that was part of it. And the screw on bottom I thought should be 2 1/2ish was at 4 so we put it where it was. I'd pm you my email but don't think my free box can take that big of files. Carb was nasty looks new now.
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