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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New to the site and needing some advice please. I hope I have this thread in the correct location.

I have a '95 Honda 300 Fourtrax 2wd. Very well maintained and in perfect condition. New shoes were installed on rear but can not eliminate noise. When cold, they squeal for the first 50 feet with hand lever partially applied. Also, when backing up with front wheels cut sharp in either direction, with or without brake applied. Seems to be coming from the drum. Super clean inside and out. New EBC Brake shoes installed recently. I have no idea what to try next? Possible rough the inner surface of the drum with 220 grit?.......just a thought.
Any suggestions/advice appreciated.
 

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The axle bearings might be defective causing the brake drum not to be concentric with the shoes. The "hand" brake is not for braking, but rather to be used as a parking brake. If the bearings are OK, sand the shoes and have the inside of the drum glass bead blasted. Squeal is caused by vibration and vibration is usually caused by glaze.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you. I sanded the inside of the drum tonight with 240 grit and it seemed to do the job. However, its always the worst the next day when you first move it, after sitting still all night. I'll test it tomorrow and see.

I had heard of the bearing situation. There is the tiniest bit of play in the bearings but I can't imagine its enough to be an issue. No worse than the play on the front truck wheel bearings in my truck.
Thanks again for the input. Hopefully tomorrow will bring good news.
 

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BIG difference between your truck and the quad. The truck has tapered roller bearings that require a small amount of play that will disappear with heat. The quad uses ball bearings that are, by design, supposed to be ZERO play. Therefore, if you can detect any play in a ball bearing supported shaft and the bearing is not new, then you can consider the bearing worn out. If the bearings are new and you have play, then there is probably wear on the axle shaft or the axle might not be tightened to spac.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The bearings are the original equipment from 1995. When trying to move the axle while suspended, I can't see it move at all but can barely feel it. Do you know how many bearing units there are? I'm assuming one on each end for sure. Is there a third uinit deeper inside? Level of difficulty to replace?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No, it's the Fourtrax utility type. Shaft drive. I think that there's only two bearings. One on each side. I've been told that there may be an additonal bearing inside. I'm not sure. I wanted to try it myself but I've about decided to take it to a local shop.
 

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In 1995 Honda offered a TRX300-A TRX300-AN (2 wheel drive shaft driven), TRX300EX-A TRX300EX-AN (2 wheel drive chain driven) and TRX300FW-A TRX300FW-AN (4 wheel drive shaft driven) A was 49 state and AN was California

In the shaft drive (2 wheel drive) there is a bearing in the brake panel and 2 bearings in the final drive. It takes a few special tools to replace the bearings in the final drive
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Been a while but I'm ready to tackle the bearing replacement. I've watched several videos for axle and other equipment removal. I still have one question though. The bearings that are located in the differential are what I'm replacing. Can they be removed without opening the differential (w/bearing puller)?..........or will I have to open the case and remove ring/pinion gears to access?
 

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The case has to be removed from the swing arm and opened up - and you will need the special spanner nut socket to get the pinion gear out to be able to replace the bearings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here 2 help,
Thank you for the info. I removed the axle and differential last night. I cant' find any play in the differential bearings. Grease level good. All is well. It seemed that the inside axle nut (diff side) was not as tight as I thought it should be. There is a slight bit of play in the splines between the axle and ring gear. However, when I tighten the axle nut firmly against the end of the ring gear, it removes the play. Is this normal? Should there be zero play between the axle and ring gear prior to tightening the axle nut? It was not difficult to remove the axle from the brake side. Granted, it was probably pulled just last year when I had the opposite side bearing replaced. I'm hoping that a loose axle nut and associated jam nut are my entire issue here. Sound logical?
 

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Sounds like you have found the problem - assemble, get the axle nut tight, use blue locktite on the axle nut and the lock nut.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I have the "blue" in my possession. Is a little play in the relationship between the ring gear and axle, normal? For some reason I always thought that you would literally have to drive the axle out of it. The splines don't show any signs of excessive wear that I can tell. Dirty but not worn. Should I coat the splines with any lubricant during reassembly? Wheel bearing grease, etc? It's very dry in there.
 

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The small amount of movement is normal and a splined axle is a snap to remove. Axles that ride directly in bearing races have to be driven out. Yes, lube the splines with waterproof wheel bearing grease. It's dry in there because the seals that keep the oil in the final drive keep the oil out of the ring gear splines.
 
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