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Discussion Starter #1
So I rebuilt my brothers 02 400ex a couple months ago and it runs beautifully but we took it out to the dunes and after a while it will die as if you just turned the key off, and then you wait a couple seconds and it starts right back up like nothing ever happend. I'm pretty sure it's not fuel because if you try to start it after it dies, you cant pump the throttle because it floods out, so I dont really think it's not getting enough fuel. My only thought is the kill switch is crapping out, and I was gonna bypass it but thought I'd ask on here before I started hacking on the wiring. Also it never does it when it's cold, it's always once its warmed up good, and it will do it if its idling or wot in 5th, which also makes me think it's not fuel. It also blew a fuse the other day for no reason, it only did it once, and I'm not even sure if that's related or not, but thought I would include everything. Let me know if you have any ideas, thanks
 

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Sorry man - I was not online yesterday - bypassing the kill switch is easy - unplug it - the ignition is killed by grounding the black wire with a white stripe coming out of the CDI unit - you have two kill devices - the key switch and the handlebar switch.

Start the engine, disconnect the kill switches and see if it still does it, then try to determine if it's ignition or mechanical causing the problem.
 

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Sorry man - I was not online yesterday - bypassing the kill switch is easy - unplug it - the ignition is killed by grounding the black wire with a white stripe coming out of the CDI unit - you have two kill devices - the key switch and the handlebar switch.

Start the engine, disconnect the kill switches and see if it still does it, then try to determine if it's ignition or mechanical causing the problem.
Ok, I know how to do it, I just thought that I would ask first before I did anything. And now that I think about it, we put a cheap QA parts key switch in it because he lost his key, so that's probably the problem
 

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Ok, I know how to do it, I just thought that I would ask first before I did anything. And now that I think about it, we put a cheap QA parts key switch in it because he lost his key, so that's probably the problem
What's a QA key switch? Queer Aftermarket?

The key switch connects blk/wht to green in the OFF position and red to blk in the ON position
 

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What's a QA key switch? Queer Aftermarket?

The key switch connects blk/wht to green in the OFF position and red to blk in the ON position
Haha, ya just a cheap one I bought off of rocky mountain, and I figured that if there was a short in the ignition somewhere that it would blow the fuse, it always blows it right when you turn the key on, the neutral light flashes for a second and then its completely dead
 

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Haha, ya just a cheap one I bought off of rocky mountain, and I figured that if there was a short in the ignition somewhere that it would blow the fuse, it always blows it right when you turn the key on, the neutral light flashes for a second and then its completely dead
The ignition is not battery activated - the only reason for the electrical system is to run the starter motor and lights. If it had a recoil starter a battery would not be needed. As long as you don't turn on the lights, you can push start it and run it - if you turn on the lights without a battery, they will burn out - the battery acts as a buffer whenn the engine is above 2500 RPM and provides power to the lights below 2500 RPM.

The blowing fuse problem is completely separate - the problem has to be stator, CDI box, coil, spark plug cap, spark plug or wiring. Intermittent are the hardest to find, but CDI boxes seldom become intermittent, so try the other parts first.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The ignition is not battery activated - the only reason for the electrical system is to run the starter motor and lights. If it had a recoil starter a battery would not be needed. As long as you don't turn on the lights, you can push start it and run it - if you turn on the lights without a battery, they will burn out - the battery acts as a buffer whenn the engine is above 2500 RPM and provides power to the lights below 2500 RPM.

The blowing fuse problem is completely separate - the problem has to be stator, CDI box, coil, spark plug cap, spark plug or wiring. Intermittent are the hardest to find, but CDI boxes seldom become intermittent, so try the other parts first.
Ok, thank you I'll look at the spark plug, maybe that's the problem, if not then I'll order an OEM key switch for it - which I should have done in the first place, but I guess I learned my lesson
 

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Before you order a key switch, just unplug the wiring from the key switch and jump the red wire to the black wire - that will power up the electrical system - you can start it and shut it off with the handlebar switches - when done testing, remove the jumper wire to turn the lights off and not run the battery down.
 
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