400EX oil cooler with fan
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The deleted thread from 2013 said: "Spal makes a 4" fan that fits perfectly on the factory cooler."
Why are you having a heat problem? Keep the cooler clean and as long as the oil does not get over 300 degrees F it's not a problem - I was racing and pushing the oil to near 300 degrees, so I switched to a 15w50 full synthetic oil - the temp stayed the same, but mineral oil starts to break down at around 300* and the synthetic is good to about 350*. What temp is your oil getting to?
Why are you having a heat problem? Keep the cooler clean and as long as the oil does not get over 300 degrees F it's not a problem - I was racing and pushing the oil to near 300 degrees, so I switched to a 15w50 full synthetic oil - the temp stayed the same, but mineral oil starts to break down at around 300* and the synthetic is good to about 350*. What temp is your oil getting to?
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Got bike and immediately replaced piston, rings and gasket due to leaking. I also installed full dg exhaust and rejetted carb. Haven't temp checked oil but noticed it burns a significant amount and seems much hotter than my previous bikes ran. I'm switching to amsoil full synthetic 4 stroke formula to see if it stops burning so much
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Generally, synthetic will get past the rings easier than mineral oil. so oil consumption might increase with synthetic - only time will tell.
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Details............
When you replaced the piston and rings, what size piston did it have in it? What was the piston to cylinder clearance of the old piston? What was the ring end gap of the old rings? What is the ring end gap of the new rings? How was the cylinder honed before assembly? Did you replace the valve seals?
When you replaced the piston and rings, what size piston did it have in it? What was the piston to cylinder clearance of the old piston? What was the ring end gap of the old rings? What is the ring end gap of the new rings? How was the cylinder honed before assembly? Did you replace the valve seals?
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If you got a std piston and put it in a .020 overbore cyl, it will run and burn oil
Still got the old piston? Clean the top of it and look for markings
Still got the old piston? Clean the top of it and look for markings
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Oh - OK - then all should be well - now the only thing I can think of is valve seals or the rings didn't seat as they should have - how have you been running the engine? Let sit and idle to break-in, went racing the day after assembly, rode ten miles down a road at a steady speed?
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Maybe just give it some time - I rebuilt the engine in my 65 Mustang and was dejected that it was still burning about a qt of oil every 1000 miles. A veteran mechanic asked me what kind of oil I was running and I told him Pennzoil 10w40 - he suggested the oil was too slick to break in the double moly TRW rings I had installed and suggested switching to Quaker State 5w straight weight oil until the rings seated and the oil consumption decreased then switch back to Pennzoil. It worked - after about 3000 miles the engine quit burning oil and I got another 100K out of the engine before the next rebuild.
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The 400EX only has one on the cover and it does not come with the filter - it has to be purchased separately
Part # 91302-KF0-003 @ $3 (54 x 2.4 mm)
I do not replace it every time - I keep one on hand in case it is needed and reuse it as many times as possible.
Part # 91302-KF0-003 @ $3 (54 x 2.4 mm)
I do not replace it every time - I keep one on hand in case it is needed and reuse it as many times as possible.
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Yeah - that might be true - Fram is so cheap, they can afford to include o-rings - I won't use Fram - I use HiFlo almost exclusively - I will use K&N (they are made by HiFlo and use the same numbering - a HiFlo HF113 is a K&N KN113) - Fram is $8.50, K&N is $8 and HiFlo is $4 - Fram has been proven to come apart in use and damage engines, so I simply won't use them - won't use Champion spark plugs either.
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