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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
What I circled is why it won’t shift it’s getting caught and then even when I spin transmission it doesn’t rotate and drop into the slot. This is why I think I can’t shift it when the cases go together. Because when I moved that so that it can drop into the slot it shift through all gears perfect. Any idea as to why this might be happening?
 

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What I'm saying is if you got a wrong thrust washer in somewhere, put one on the wrong side of a gear, oriented one incorrectly or if there is an error on the manual, you can follow the instructions to the T and still have it wrong, but it will take a close and detailed inspection to see what the problem might be - could be as simple as someone before you putting the wrong bearing in on the countershaft or not having a bearing fully seated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Ok I think I’m gonna just have to send it in somewhere unfortunately because I just can’t figure it out. I starting to wonder if me replacing the needle bearing on the shift drum is the reason why now that you mention not having a bearing seated all the way. But it was exactly the same size bearing so that doesn’t make sense. Do you know if each bearing fits in flush with the case or is there something in the manual with how far each bearing goes? I did notice the main shaft bearing was not all the way down but I couldn’t get it to go any further and the gap is extremely slight.
 

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What are you trying to show in the last pic? (post #21) - the dogs will set against each other until one shaft is held stationary and the other rotated.

What bearing(s) in this drawing did you replace? And where did you get a replacement needle bearing for the shift drum? The shift drum bearings are installed at the factory and come with the engine cases. To replace them you would first have to aftermarket source them and then use special procedures to install them correctly.

4698
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I am trying to show that even when I rotate the main shaft the dogs don’t move they act like they are stuck against each other. They should rotate and then when I shift they go into the correct slot to change gears correct? I have the pick up on the top gear to get them to unstick. When I first took the cases apart I wanted to replace all the bearings so I basically destroyed the needle bearing trying to get it out come to find out they come with the case and you can’t buy them separate. So I ended up getting the bearing machined out and I ordered an aftermarket replacement which I then had pressed in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I am trying to show that even when I rotate the main shaft the dogs don’t move they act like they are stuck against each other. They should rotate and then when I shift they go into the correct slot to change gears correct? I have the pick up on the top gear to get them to unstick. When I first took the cases apart I wanted to replace all the bearings so I basically destroyed the needle bearing trying to get it out come to find out they come with the case and you can’t buy them separate. So I ended up getting the bearing machined out and I ordered an aftermarket replacement which I then had pressed in.
I replaced #33
 

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OK - now you have disclosed the source of your problem - you re-engineered the engine - now it's your responsibility to verify dimensions and clearances. All you need is another set of cases to get accurate measurements from and make the modified cases match the dimensions of the original design.

Yeah, you will need to take it to a shop to see what they can do with it.

Lesson learned: do not remove any parts that you have not already bought replacements for.

I have removed and reinstalled that needle bearing when doing major engine customization - to remove; heat the engine case to about 450 degrees F and then drop onto a board - to install freeze the bearing in liquid CO2 or nitrogen and heat the engine case to about 400 degrees - drop the frozen bearing into the case and let return to room temp prior to assembly, but I never tried to find a replacement bearing.

Good luck with your project
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I don’t see how putting in a bearing the exact size as an oem bearing can change anything but as nothing else seems to be wrong I guess that’s what it has to be. Thanks for the help I’ll let you know what I come up with.
 

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So I ended up getting the bearing machined out and I ordered an aftermarket replacement which I then had pressed in.

I don’t see how putting in a bearing the exact size as an oem bearing can change anything but as nothing else seems to be wrong I guess that’s what it has to be. Thanks for the help I’ll let you know what I come up with.
You had to have the old one machined out - so where did you find an exact replacement? I have never found the replacement bearing and it's the reason I remove them and reuse them. Please reveal your source - it may be valuable to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Couldn’t tell you. If you just click on needle bearings you can find the size you need.
 

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Nope - too many special bearings and Honda like to use special bearings - try finding a 25x52x13 Honda part number 91003- KCY-671 - the bearing is marked 6205.

What was the dimensions of the old bearing?

You can go to your account with McMaster and look up orders for at least the last two years.

4704
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Ok I’ll see if I can find it. But I literally just measured the old bearing and then went under needle bearings and found one the same size.
 

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Measuring off an old shift drum I believe it is probably the right bearing, so if the shift drum is in the correct position, it's back to the transmission shafts and shift fork
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Yes I’m going to try to order a new right shift fork and see if that fixes the issue but again it wouldn’t make much sense because it worked before I took the engine apart. So it really only makes sense that it’s the transmission assembled wrong. I keep going back to what you said about that one shaft should be stationary on the transmission when I move one and that’s just not how mine is. I move the main shaft and the counter shaft spins. Am I misinterpreting what you are saying?
 

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Yes I’m going to try to order a new right shift fork and see if that fixes the issue but again it wouldn’t make much sense because it worked before I took the engine apart. So it really only makes sense that it’s the transmission assembled wrong. I keep going back to what you said about that one shaft should be stationary on the transmission when I move one and that’s just not how mine is. I move the main shaft and the counter shaft spins. Am I misinterpreting what you are saying?
Yes, you have to hold one shaft stationary - normally the chain is connected to the output shaft and is holding it from moving while the engine is spinning the input shaft so the position of the gears are constantly changed. It's referred to as a constant mesh transmission because all the gears are enmeshed and rotating constantly. Gears that are splined to one shaft mesh with gears that freewheel on the opposing shaft. When a splined gear is engaged to a free wheeling gear, power is transmitted from the driving gear to the freewheeling gear to the splined gear it is mated with and the input rotation is transmitted to the output and ultimately to the rear wheels.
 
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