Well that’s good to know. I probably would’ve tore it up trying to push it in from the outside... Let me also ask you this: Does the regulator/rectifier have any purpose in the ignition system, or is it only for battery charging? Reason I ask, is I wonder if the R/R were to be bad, and I plugged in my new stator and tried to run it, would it harm the new parts?? Just a thought...
The rec/reg is only for charging the battery - a bad stator or battery can cause the r/r to fail and a bad r/r can cause the stator and the battery to fail - the only time a r/r could cause the ignition to fail is if the diodes short out and high voltage AC gets to the CDI unit.
This would also ruin the CDI, correct? I swapped CDI’s with the running unit and the one out of my machine works perfectly in the running machine. As I said, when we were playing with this machine about a year ago it never had a battery, we hooked jumper cables to the battery leads, started it, took them off and rode. While doing this we also occasionally used headlights etc off of stator power. When in neutral, I remember that the neutral light would dim/go out when you revved it up. Could this have caused damage?
Running without a battery means no voltage regulation although AC is turned into DC - when running with the lights on all the consumed current has to be supplied by the stator overloading it and causing it to get hot - so running without a battery can burn the stator windings reducing their output - I don't know, I'm not the one working on it - I can only share with you the possibilities - it's up to the person working on it to determine the problem and cause of the problem and to fix it.
I wouldn’t doubt at all that this is what occurred. Without a peak voltage meter I have no way of knowing, but that makes perfect sense. Seals are scheduled for delivery tomorrow, and once those are in I’ll be throwing the stator on the engine. We’ll find out for sure then.
Alright, the seal is here, and I can’t get it to go in. Page 10-9 in service manual shows it being driven in from the top, and you said to drive it in from bottom. I put oil around the edge and have tried driving it in both ways. It definitely doesn’t want to go in from the back side, but also wouldn’t seat on the front. The spring in the seal is starting to get messed up... what do I need to do?
I can't advise you remotely - I normally push the seals in by hand - they do not need to be 'driven' or 'pressed' - metal body seals fit tighter and require a bit more than finger pressure, but the rubber encased seals are a light press fit (heavy finger pressure).
One side of the hole in the case is normally chamfered slightly making insertion from that side slightly easier. Compare the new seal to the old seal - Honda is known to change seal sizes from year to year.
The old seal was dry rotted so badly that I tore it out in pieces - so I have no way of comparing. I made sure that the numbers on the existing seal matched the new one. This is a metal bodied seal. The shifter seal is not, it went in just fine. I wish I would’ve taken better note of how the original seal was installed.
Now that I see what you are into I can tell you; it has to be installed from the outside with the cover off - you need to heat the cover to about 250 degrees F and use a seal driver (socket, pipe or what ever fits the hole snugly without binding and gets as close to the edge of the seal as possible - tap with a hammer or use an arbor press to push the seal into the hole (lubed or not will not matter) until the face of the seal is flush to 1 mm past the edge of the hole.
Well, thanks for the advice, but I sorta destroyed the seal trying to get it to go in. I had a socket that fit it decently, and kept trying to drive it in with a hammer. it eventually just wrecked the seal. Got another one ordered from a dealer and I’m gonna take the cover to them and let them put it in. Guess you can’t win em all... Will be in touch
Alright, $35 later (+ another $9 seal), the seal is installed. Everything back together, and the spark is still ridiculously weak. You can just barely even see the spark. Tried a different plug too just to make sure i wasn’t crazy. Tried my plug in the running unit, and it makes a very good spark. Far far brighter and stronger. I’m lost at this point... What else can I do?
I'm at a loss - maybe try running a ground wire from the neg side of the battery to the coil and a bolt on the engine just to eliminate a poor ground as a possibility - if its not a ground then a detailed inspection and cleaning of all the connections would be on my list. Worst one I ever ran into was a Yamaha Big Bear that lost spark and defied repair - in desperation, I made up a wiring harness between the stator, coil and CDI unit eliminating many connections and all kill switches - got spark and ultimately found a bad connection between a wire and the bullet connector crimped to it - the only bad connection in the whole wiring harness.
When we got this thing going a year ago, we had no key. so we cut the ignition harness and tied together a couple of the wires to make it run. I later replaced this with an ebay ignition, but kept the stock plug, cut the wires short snd soldered them together for sort of an “emergency key” if something happened to the ignition. I figured I had nothing to lose, so I plugged it in. Immediately I had a much better spark. Put the plug in, and with a little carb tuning it fired right up and idled. I am SO relieved!!! New ignition switch is about to get ordered!
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