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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I recently took out my hot cam and just finished putting the stock cam back in. Yes i put the spring and plunger back in. Also put in a HD chain. The timing marks on the cam gear 'almost' lined up with the head. It was very close, would that make a difference?

Ok, got everything back together, go to start it and just cranks. I spray some gas in the carb and it runs for 3 seconds then dies. Did it again then a backfire. Tried a third time and nothing.

I took the carb apart to inspect the jets and clean them. Could there be airlock? The gas flows from the tank, but upon inspection i didn't see any gas being pumped threw when i hit the throttle.

Think thats it? How can i bleed the carb if it is?

I didn't adjust the valves afterwards...Could that also be part of the problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also, I loosened the drain screw to see if there was any fuel in the carb, and nothing came out of the hose. Then took the float chamber cap completely off and it was completely dry. When i took the carb off and cleaned it, i might have Fubar'd something up in the process of tossing it back together. I only took off the float bowl (4 screws), took out the float itself, and cleaned the jets. Main was fine, the pilot was a bit clogged. They are stock jets.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I will check them tomorrow morning. Stock settings are intake .004 and exhaust .005 correct?

Still stumped about the carb...

Should i leave it soak for an hour? Rip it completely apart and clean it inside out?
 

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Hold on a minute! Where did you guys get your degree in mechanics:confused:

You must check the valve adjustment anytime you make a change in the valve train! :mad:

Now, there is nothing to pull fuel into the carb other than gravity. The valves have nothing to do with it. :eek:

Hard to say what you screwed up when you took the carb apart, but unless you are experienced with carbs they are best left alone. Carbs are one piece of equipment that is very precise. :(

And you will not see any fuel flow when cranking or running. The only time you will see fuel flow is when the float bowl is empty and filling. Once it is full, flow stops. The flow is completely dependent on two things; 1) the opening and closing of the float needle 2) venting of the fuel bowl. :rolleyes:

If you can't figure it out - take it to a qualified wrench. :confused:

Sorry if I am a bit short, but accept it - you caused your own problem by getting into something you didn't fully understand before going there. I can't help but wonder what else you might have screwed-up by poking around. :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hold on man, this is my first stab with a 4 stroke quad. I have rebuilt numerous engines from v8s to chainsaws, but never one like this. Just need a little help.

From what i can tell the carb isn't gettng any fuel. I'm heading out there now to adjust the valves and see how to get some gas in that carb, using process of elimination.

Then hitting the starter button.

Wish this white boy some luck.
 

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OK white boy: GOOD LUCK :D

Once you get the valves checked (and adjusted if necessary), get the carb off. First make sure the float bowl vents are open. I've seen novice mechanics loop the hose from one float bowl vent to the other and from the vent to the bowl drain. Either way effectively closes the vent and then the bowl has to try to vent through the main jet.

If vents are ok, take the bowl off. Hold the carb slightly less than horizontal with the float needle seat at the top. The needle should be unseated and fuel may flow. (check this with a piece of hose attached to the fuel line nipple and blow through it). Tip the carb to above the horizontal. The floats should swing against the needle and shut off the air flow. If the floats do not move freely - find out why. Sometimes the float needle or the needle seat gets corrosion on it and prevents the needle from opening (or in some cases, closing).

Hope this helps :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Indeed it did. The float was held up, and it is now flowing great. But alas, no fire up. Checked the timing again, and it is dead nuts on. I have come down to 3 things it could be..

1. When i went to adjust the valves, i referenced the adjusting guide and it said there should be some play in the rockers at TDC. Well, the rockers are all tight as hell, throughout the cycle. Maybe they are too tight?

2. The spark plug. It is a oem DPR8Z but it is pretty black, which i don't understand because all the jets are stock and it should be running lean? Also, the metal cap on the spark plug itself was off, with just the threaded post showing, and the plug boot was a very loose fit. My gf and sister are picking up a new one now, told them to make sure it has a metal cap on it. But, would that cap being off affect the spark? It fired before like that, but did not completely run. The plug was wet so it is getting fuel.

3.With the stock cam back in, do i have to mess with the decomp. mechanism at TDC in any way or that self adjusting upon startup? The plunger and spring are in there and functioning.

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
When cranking the exhaust doesn't seem to be puffing too much out, but it did start before for a few seconds. Maybe due to tight valves?

Looking for help, not ignorance.

New to the 4 stroke ATV world bud. Just making sure i don't screw it up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Put the new plug in, and adjusted the valves...fired right up.

The valves were tight as HELL.

Flushing the oil a few times tomorrow, then a quick test n tune, then a complete cleaning.

She purrs like a kitten now, thanks for the help guys. Owe you some beers.
 

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One step at a time.

First get the valves adjusted. Put the engine on TDC and get some clearence on the valves. At this point, accuracy is not important. You have screw tappet adjusters. Loosen the lock nuts and back the screws off till you have just a bit of movement of the rocker arm on each valve.

Second, check the compression with a gauge. Hold the throttle wide open and get about 4 to 10 compression strokes. Should have somethine between 120 and 150psi.

Third - the cap missing from the plug will not affect starting unless the plug is fouled, in which case the missing cap might make it start easier. The reason the spark plug cap snaps onto the top of the plug is to keep it from coming off during operation. A tight connection will not improve the spark. NOTE: Always use a new plug when trying to start an engine after having worked on it.

What makes you think the stock jets would make it run lean? And whats the problem with being a bit lean? LEAN IS MEAN! The leaner you run an engine the more power it will produce. Lean = HOT - HOT= POWER. The hotter you run an engine the more power it produces, but you don't want to run it so lean that you burn it up. Don't jet up arbitrarily. Jetting has to do with carburetion. Changes to the engine do not affect changes to the carb as much as changes to the intake and exhaust. You should make changes to everything first, run the engine and then make necessary changes to the carburetion as dictated by the performance of the engine.

The decompressor (if working properly) needs no adjustment, but when adjusting the valves, take care to not turn the engine backwards to get to TDC. But, when at TDC, if the right exhaust valve has no clearence, it may indicate that the decompressor is stuck. Turning the crankshaft forward and backward, quickly, a few degrees can unstick the decompressor and facilitate proper valve adjustment. This is not a concern until you have gotten the engine running and are ready to finish the job with adjusting the valves to their proper clearence.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well, she's finally finished. Cleaned her up a bit, flushed oil 3 times and called it a day. Gonna head out tonight and do some night riding with a few buddies.

Thanks all. Cheers.
 
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