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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
07 416 new top end.bought not running and i put a top end on it. Put almost 3 quarts in it. Blew out all lines and cooler. New filter. Took the return line out of the motor and started for a quick second. Oil shot out steady about 3ft and went further when i blip the throttle so im guessing the pump is working and lower case screen aint clogged. Let it idle for 5-10 minutes steady not reving it.shut it off.check it right after or let it sit for a while and nothing shows up on dip stick.let it sit over night and barley shows on tip. Wheres my oil going?
And the crank vent going to the little plastic container before the airbox dont have oil in it(it did when i had 4 quarts in it)
 

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Oil is going into the crankcase - oil is not supposed to be checked until after the engine has been started and run for about 1 minute - I think the manual recommends 3 minutes prior to checking the oil.

The oil is draining from the oil tank to the crankcase due to either a damaged check valve, stuck check valve, missing check valve or weak/broken check valve spring.

Just remember to run the engine prior to checking or changing the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ive let it run about 5 min. Then i immediately check it,nothing,i wait a few min still nothing. Wait couple hours still nothing. I unscrewed the cooler line on top of the tank then started it and oil flowed good so i shut it off and screwed it back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also when its running and i pull the dip stick out theres no oil splatter coming out.not sure if its suppose to. Also how much air comes out of the crank case vent tube.the one that goes to the airbox?
 

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It only holds 2.3 quarts after complete disassembly - there is no specification for the amount of air that comes out when the piston moves downward, but the same amount goes in when the piston goes up - technically it is the amount of piston displacement (416 cc)

If you think the amout coming out is in excess of the amount going in, do a cylinder leakdown test to see if compression is getting past the rings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Whats the best way to do a leak down test? I have a compression tester but nothing else
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wasnt taking no chances so took the clutch cover off to check the screen...had a bunch of aluminum shavings in it and couple pieces of rtv in it but wasnt clogged...working on flushing the rest of the shavings out.guessing it all came from the nemara piston breaking..but any way i also noticed my oil filter spring looks cut or broke on both ends. Wonder if that was my problem to begin with?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Believe i found my problem now that the rings seized in the piston but i took the clutch cover off to inspect the oil pump and the 3 orings that go on the pump to cover were missing. Also discovered the spring that goes on the clutch shaft was missing too. Every thing else appears to be there.
Can the oil pump gasket be reused?
Also there seems to be atleast half movement left on the cam chain tensioner, should i replace the chain or should it be good?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Also found some type of rubber plug in the top oil port on the inside of the clutch cover.
 

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Believe i found my problem now that the rings seized in the piston but i took the clutch cover off to inspect the oil pump and the 3 orings that go on the pump to cover were missing. Also discovered the spring that goes on the clutch shaft was missing too. Every thing else appears to be there.
Can the oil pump gasket be reused?
Also there seems to be atleast half movement left on the cam chain tensioner, should i replace the chain or should it be good?
That's not 3 o-rings - it's a one piece 3 ring gasket (#10) - yes, it can be reused a couple of times, but will flatten and harden with age and really should be replaced each time the cover is removed, but it is not mandatory.

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The spring? You are talking about #8 in the pic? That is an anti rattle spring - it just pulls on the clutch cable hard enough to pull the clutch lever into the perch to keep it from rattling.
4717


There is no rubber plug in any oil ports - it was probably RTV used by r e d neck too cheap to buy a gasket - that oil port may be the feed to the can and rocker arms - using RTV for a gasket has ruined many cams and rocker arms.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes that spring. I ordered one anyway..and ordered the 3 ring gasket too.i reused the metal oil pump gasket. I dont use rtv sealant.previous owners must have but i put all new gaskets in it now. And the piece i pulled from the top port was a rubber plug(not sealant) not sure how it got there.it was blocking the main port that goes to the bottom of the where the oil filter goes..
Assuming this was my problem i should be good to go once i get my new piston.this time im going to get je 10:8.1
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I dont think so..its wierd cause the way it was in the port was almost like it was made to fit in.kind of like moulded just so it fits with even a little flange on it so it wouldnt go in the port all the way....ill go out and take a pic
 

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That effectively shuts all oil flow to the engine - and the missing 3-ring o-ring would allow oil from the oil tank to fill the crankcase and effectively remove the oil tank from the lubrication system. Whoever did that was a freaking Idiot with a capital EYE!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yea that what i was saying. Funny cause oil was still shooting up to the head and out the line going to the tank...but anyway bottom end is good...now maybe with another new piston ill have a good runner....
 
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