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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
1985 TRX 250. Replaced both centrifugal and shift clutch. Shifting was tough on the pedal so began messing with the Increase/decrease "Play" screw adjustment. Lightened it up, almost too much I'm afraid. Accelerated in yard in 3rd gear froma stop. Heard a bang. Now this when rpms are falling. Can avoid by hitting brakes or downshifting quickly upon decelerating. Pulled clutch cover off and listened and looked. The sounds and vibration coming from transmission it seems.
 

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Need more detailed info - what parts of the centrifugal and manual clutch did you replace and where did you get the parts?
Font Motor vehicle Handwriting Auto part Drawing
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Need more detailed info - what parts of the centrifugal and manual clutch did you replace and where did you get the parts?
View attachment 4957
The shift clutch I replaced the pads and discs. The centrifugal clutch I replaced with a used part as the clutch surface area of the housing of mine and clutch pads had extreme wear. The used clutch I installed was in light-used condition. Id like to add I had no noises or issues with the clutch r&rs. It wasn't until I adjusted the tensioner as it was difficult to shift. I believe I set the tension too lose and upon a lot of torque applied while accelerating from a stop in 3rd gear is when the noise began. I have no experience with the transmission of the TRX but have reviewed the repair manual I have without any idea of what I could have damaged. I have had the clutch cover off twice trying to inspect for the issue or damage and there is no obvious wear for all moving parts on this side of the case. Was hoping to go into the transmission side with a heads up of what may have happened.
 

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Did the used centrifugal clutch come with the one way sprag clutch to provide engine braking and the ability to push start?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Did the used centrifugal clutch come with the one way sprag clutch to provide engine braking and the ability to push start?
Yes, it had a functioning sprag clutch. My original clutch the sprag bearings fell onto the floor and upon reasssembly I screwed up the spring which was one of the reasons I ordered the new "used" clutch
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Why didn't you just adjust the external adjuster to see if that would prevent the slip?
At that time not realizing what the function of the external adjuster actually did. Based upon the condition of the original centrifugal clutch, I'd say my problem was most likely there. Regardless, this is the point as to where I am currently with the machine.
 

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OK - well you realize the centrifugal clutch is not a 'slip clutch' it goes from slip to full lock in about 500 to 1000 rpm?

The shift clutch does most of the work and if you are good with it, you clutch using the gear shift lever andkeep the engine at a steady rpm.

I can't guess as to what the noise is - I recommend you pull it back apart and inspect the installation - perhaps you left something loose or assembled incorrectly. If you put it in gear and push it will it turn the engine? Maybe you got the sprag clutch installed in the wrong direction or left out a shim washer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
From the beginning and to be more clear, I purchased the four wheeler a few weeks prior. The two main issues it had was 1: The cam chain would make a loud slapping noise upon letting off of the throttle- tensioner was functioning but bottomed out. Cam chain was replaced. Lot's of riding without any issues relating from chain replacement. This issue was successfully resolved.
2. While riding in higher gears (3rd,4th,5th) the rpms would increase without any additional speed increase upon acceleration.
This is when I assumed the next step was to replace the discs and pads on the shift clutch. Upon removal of the centrifugal clutch to remove the shift clutch I notice the friction pads or shoes were pretty wore down and deep scoring was present on the clutch housing. I decided to order a used clutch in much better condition and the sprag bearings/clutch where included. All shims were installed correctly. The sprag clutch was installed in the proper direction. Upon reinstallation, and test driving, the quad no longer "slipped" in higher gears and things seemed fine- except the shift lever was very hard to upshift/downshift. TO a point where it felt like I may break the shift lever. Perhaps I should have let things be from there but that's when I decided to adjust the play. I decreased the play and the shift lever now shifted effortlessly, I thought too easily- its not until this point when I was in a high gear (3rd) from a stop where I accelerated and heard the initial bang noise.

The noise in the video takes place what sounds like in the transmission, not anywhere around the clutches. Both clutches have been inspected while running the engine with the case off with no visible issues.

I can put the quad in gear while off and push it forward, it will lock up the tires, which assuming if I had more traction, yes would turn the motor over. I can easily pull the quad backwards in gear while off.
 

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OK - it all sounds good and I take it the noise is there in all gears and neutral?

If that's the case, then I'll guess you knocked a tooth off a gear in the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
While in neutral, at a certain point while the rpms drop before idle, as shown in video. While in gear and deaccelerating, noise is much more audible and is a loud popping noise but at the same rpm range. I can avoid it from happening if I downshift during that rpm range. Does it make sense to say when the transmission is "braking" the motor upon letting off the throttle that is when it's loud, real loud.
I guess ultimately the next step is to pull the other side apart and see what's going on. Assuming I will be able to visually see something broken. Seems a tad overwhelming to get into the transmission side of the case but between the manual and how far I've come so far, should be able to get things figured out.

I have mechanical abilities but when I don't understand fully how things work, it becomes a guessing game and hate creating problems when trying to fix another.😣
 

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There is no transmission side - the transmission is inside the engine cases - the only thing on the outside is the bevel gear for the shaft drive. The really bad thing is there are no parts available even if you take it apart. Better off to just part it out. But, it would be good exercise to take it apart to find out what happened and learn about how the thing is engineered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Upon you mentioning it, yes, this is the other obstacle I now recall. Don't feel like doing an entire teardown to access. And parts were another factor, this I learned looking for other various parts.
Paid $700 for the machine, put $150 into it so far, perhaps avoid issue best I can with what I can control and drive it until it breaks.
 
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