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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I recently purchased a used non-running 1995 TRX300FW. From the PO it had intermittent spark and then failed to start after some time. It sat for two months, but everything else mechanical was fine before I bought it.

I got the ATV running, but have two problems so far:

First is the choke/Enrichment valve. I cleaned the carb (D-Ray Smith YouTube!) And installed all new jets etc. with a Shindy kit. ATV runs/revs/idles, but I need to fiddle with the choke to get it to do so.

Do I need a new choke valve and cable. It is very "sticky" to move.

Second is a bigger problem. I hear a ticking noise in the left crankcase. The ATV will not move in first or reverse, just revs up. Adjusted the clutch on external right crankcase screw, and no help.

Contacted the PO and was told a buddy removed the left crankcase cover to check the stator and pulse generator. Did/could they have put the cover on and messed up something to make it not move in gear and cause a loud ticking noise in the left crankcase?

Thanks for the help,
MnOutdoorsman
 

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I just got notification of your success - I was going to inform you there was nothing under the alternator cover that would affect the drive and suggest it all had to do with the clutch or transmission.

I look forward to your detailed discovery and solution
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here's an update,

Thanks Here 2 help!

Good progress last night. I cleaned out the enrichment valve and added a little silicone spray to the plunger and that seemed to help a lot.

I also saw that the carburetor piston diaphragm shifted just a little and that was likey the main cause of my high speed issues.

I figured out that the clutch adjustment was very far counter clockwise and I wasn't turning the adjustment screw far enough. That solved it.

The only thing I still could get some help on is that the shifting is good going up in gears(still shifts abruptly)
4742
, but wants to grind downshifting. I just come to a complete stop to downshift to not damage gears. Is this likely a worn clutch? (Have service manual)

Thanks
MnOutdoorsman
 

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Here's an update,

Thanks Here 2 help!

Good progress last night. I cleaned out the enrichment valve and added a little silicone spray to the plunger and that seemed to help a lot.

I also saw that the carburetor piston diaphragm shifted just a little and that was likey the main cause of my high speed issues.

I figured out that the clutch adjustment was very far counter clockwise and I wasn't turning the adjustment screw far enough. That solved it.

The only thing I still could get some help on is that the shifting is good going up in gears(still shifts abruptly), but wants to grind downshifting. I just come to a complete stop to downshift to not damage gears. Is this likely a worn clutch? (Have service manual)

Thanks
MnOutdoorsman
A worn clutch is generally a driving issue (doesn't get power to the rear wheels efficiently),

You have the manual? Then you will find there are 2 clutches: the centrifugal clutch transmits power from the crankshaft to the manual multi-plate wet clutch - the manual clutch has a release built into the gearshift. The centrifugal clutch has no adjustment and the biggest problem with the centrifugal clutch results in a constant engagement causing the vehicle to want to drive at idle when in gear. The manual clutch is released with the gearshift to facilitate shifting. The manual clutch problems include slip (misadjustment, wear, weak springs or incorrect oil), drag (misadjustment, warped driven plates, broken driving plate, notches worn into the clutch basket fingers where the drive plates contact not allowing the plates to separate sufficiently or incorrect oil) and insufficient operation caused by excessive movement of the assembly on the transmission input shaft (loose securing nut or missing shim).

Try this: when you shift into gear, hold the shift lever (either up or down) and try to accelerate - holding the shift lever will maintain the manual clutch in release - if you hold the throttle steady and let off the shift lever slowly, it will engage the clutch gradually - this technique can be utilized when in a situation where you want to keep the engine speed elevated and apply the clutch progressively instead of using engine speed to engage the centrifugal clutch progressively. This is especially useful on steep hills.

Oil? Oil that is not JASO rated or is contaminated with water, gasoline or has had certain additives mixed in can cause clutch problems. Do not use oil with friction modifiers (most modern automotive engine oil), additives such as STP, Motor Honey and graphite. Diesel grade oil is OK as long as it has the JASO rating (I believe Mobil 1 motorcycle oil is rated JASO "M", API "S" and API "C" - M is for motorcycle and ATV's that run the clutch and transmission in the same oil as the engine. S is for gasoline engines and C is for diesel engines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here's some more information: I do have good power to my wheels and I have the service manual for help with any repairs.

I don't have constant engagement with the centrifugal clutch, that seems to work just fine. No movement during idle in forward (UL or 1st) or reverse, give it a little throttle and it engages as expected.

When in forward UL gear or reverse pushing up or down on the shift lever does not keep the manual clutch in release. I can throttle up and still move forward or backwards. I tried holding it as far a possible without shifting back into neutral or changing gears. Is this a linkage issue or does it mean there are some bigger problems going on?

All fluids have been replaced so far except the DOT4 brake fluid. I used all Honda fluids for engine/transfer case (Honda GN4 SAE10W-40 SJ with OEM Honda oil filter), and the front and rear differentials I used Honda Pro shaft drive hypoid gear oil SAE 80W90

If repairs are needed for multi-plate wet clutch, do you recommend new centrifugal clutch components installed at the same time if they tend to wear out simultaneously?

Thanks
 

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I believe the manual clutch is stuck from setting and perhaps some rust from condensation - try riding it in high gear while holding the clutch in release with the shift lever - as the oil warms and with vibration, the clutch should eventually release and it will work as designed - if it never breaks loose, then it will have to be removed, the plates separated, the driven plates reconditioned by bead blasting, possibly the drive plates replaced if damaged, but the is no need to replace the centrifugal clutch - it sounds like it is working properly - you just need to get the manual clutch freed up to ease shifting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Great! I will give that a try this weekend. I'll also dig into the loud ticking noise which I hear the at the left crankcase. I'll check the valves, and also the cam chain tensioner to see if that helps.

Thanks Here 2 help, have a great Memorial Day Weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No luck getting the secondary clutch to free up. I have a Honda crankcase gasket for the clutch side, so I'll get it open here and send a photo.

Still not sure if this clutch issues can be from the PO removing the stator cover and allowing the shift shaft to be pulled out some causing linkage problems on the clutch side?
 

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No luck getting the secondary clutch to free up. I have a Honda crankcase gasket for the clutch side, so I'll get it open here and send a photo.

Still not sure if this clutch issues can be from the PO removing the stator cover and allowing the shift shaft to be pulled out some causing linkage problems on the clutch side?
OK - I didn't look at the manual, I just worked off memory and I'm used to holding the shift shaft in place while removing the alternator cover - If the shift shaft is not held in as the cover is removed it will be pulled out of the manual clutch release and the manual release opreator may need to be retimed - if you pull the cover, you may as well remove the clutch springs and separate the plates - you might even want to recondition the driven metal plates by having them glass bead blasted at an automatic transmission shop.

This is the shift mech on the LH side
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This is the clutch release on the RH side
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Here's the clutches - note 3 clutches: #26 is a sprag clutch to provide engine braking and push starting (it is located inside the centrifugal clutch) - the centrifugal clutch may have to be removed to disassemble the manual clutch - inspect the centrifugal clutch springs (#9)
4756
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the great information. I'm hoping that's what happened and I need to re-time the manual clutch release like you mentioned above.

I'll go through both clutches while I have it apart and free them up/micrometer them to see if in spec.

The kick start works, so the #26 sprag clutch is still good.

I'll keep you posted on how it goes!
 
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