2007 trx90. The green neutral indicator light recently stopped coming on even when in the neutral position... After clicking the shifter up and down a few dozen times I can get it to come on and only then will the quad start. Is this a neutral safety switch issue or could it be something else
Neutral safety switch?
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First guess is a bad neutral switch switch or a bad wire connection, but it could be a bad key switch also.
The neutral light is the only thing that lets you know the power from the battery has mad it to the black wire when the switch is turned on.
Check the battery terminals first (clean & tight) - then take the light green wire with the red stripe off the neutral switch and connect to ground (this should turn on the light) or jumper from the switch to ground (same thing - it turns the light on) if the light turns on every time you touch the lg/r wire to ground, replace the switch. If you leave the wire grounded, the light will stay on all the time and it will start in gear.
If the light is intermittent when grounding the lg/r wire, you might have a bad wiring harness connection, bad engine ground, bad neutral light bulb or socket or something off the wall that I haven't covered in this brief troubleshooting guide.
Good luck
The neutral light is the only thing that lets you know the power from the battery has mad it to the black wire when the switch is turned on.
Check the battery terminals first (clean & tight) - then take the light green wire with the red stripe off the neutral switch and connect to ground (this should turn on the light) or jumper from the switch to ground (same thing - it turns the light on) if the light turns on every time you touch the lg/r wire to ground, replace the switch. If you leave the wire grounded, the light will stay on all the time and it will start in gear.
If the light is intermittent when grounding the lg/r wire, you might have a bad wiring harness connection, bad engine ground, bad neutral light bulb or socket or something off the wall that I haven't covered in this brief troubleshooting guide.
Good luck
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I would check the wire connection at the shifter. I looked at a 400ex once where the light wouldn't come on, turns out the connector to the shift lever was loose and it would pop off. Someone cab correct me if I'm wrong but the 90 should be somewhat similar despite being an automatic.
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Its more likely the safety switch, also had the same issue on connection there.
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So, WHERE is the neutral safety switch? I have an 01-02 Rancher 350 with this problem. I purchased the part (because that usually helps you locate it) and I don't see it anywhere.
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What part number did you get? I took a wild ass'ed guess and looked at a TRX350FE (Honda had FE, FM TE,and TM models in 2002) and there is no neutral switch on any of them - there is a "gear change switch" which sends signals to the display to indicate neural and each gear.
If you are not sure of the year and model, please provide VIN and I will tell you exactly what you have.
If you are not sure of the year and model, please provide VIN and I will tell you exactly what you have.
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Thanks for the reply Here 2.
I got part number 35600-HA0-003 (Honda OEM).
The catch is that the VIN is buried under a winch. There is no "display" on my 350 (see pic below) just 3 lights (N/R/O) and the ignition. If that's not enough to go on I can start unbolting...
Thanks!
Biff
I got part number 35600-HA0-003 (Honda OEM).
The catch is that the VIN is buried under a winch. There is no "display" on my 350 (see pic below) just 3 lights (N/R/O) and the ignition. If that's not enough to go on I can start unbolting...
Thanks!
Biff
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The part you got is located on the LH side of the rear engine cover kind of to the RH side and slightly lower than the gear change switch. Should be a single light green wire with a red stripe running to it. If you take the wire off and touch it to ground with the main switch on, the neutral light should turn on.
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OK - I moved the winch and verified the model. It is a 2001 TRX350TM. For the life of me I can't find this part on this model so I'm assuming the neutral safety switch on an 01 is located somewhere else, perhaps even internal?? Again - thanks for the help!
Biff
Biff
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The part you bought is #10 - I have indicated on the attached drawing where it is located on the rear engine cover.
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Here 2,
So that just isn't there (no idea why). However, up on the left hand side of the rear cover I found a pair of wires. I traced them back to a junction on the right side of the frame and disconnected them. If I short out the green one - N indicates on the dash. If I short out the gray one - R indicates on the dash. So those two wires must be attached to the switch (or whatever) inside the rear case?? Do I just simply have the wrong part or do I need to remove the rear cover to get to it?
Thanks again for all your help!!
Biff
So that just isn't there (no idea why). However, up on the left hand side of the rear cover I found a pair of wires. I traced them back to a junction on the right side of the frame and disconnected them. If I short out the green one - N indicates on the dash. If I short out the gray one - R indicates on the dash. So those two wires must be attached to the switch (or whatever) inside the rear case?? Do I just simply have the wrong part or do I need to remove the rear cover to get to it?
Thanks again for all your help!!
Biff
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I think you have a year model other than 2001 - any way you can get the VIN?
At the very least, can you post a pic of the rear cover and where the green and grey wires go?
At the very least, can you post a pic of the rear cover and where the green and grey wires go?
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Having trouble finding the VIN so I took a pic of the two "tags" where I figured it should be. One at least shows the engine family (YHNXX0. 33CA1). Also took the best pic I could of the two wires I found. Quite the puzzle...
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The vin is on a flat plate between the two frame rails on the front of the machine - at any rate - it is definitely an 01 350TM (two wheel drive manual shift)
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Hello, I'm working on an old 91 TRX200D. I had a crack in the left crankcase cover due to a chain mishap and had to remove it to get it welded. I removed the sator and change switch. The change switch had also suffered some damage as some of the top plastic molding had been crushed inwards and the top was easily separated from the case. The switch pole turned fine and I could feel it making contact when I spun it, so I figured it was just a very simple contact switch. I used some JB Plasticweld epoxy to fill the top gap and fitted it all together and reassembled it into the case cover after I got it back from the welder. After getting it all back onto the motor and filling oil back up, I went to start it up and the red reverse light was on with the trans in neutral. I thought maybe I mess up and got the switch reversed 180 so I drained the oil again and separated the cover enough to rotate the pin and tried that, but that created a situation where the rev light only came on when I jacked up to 4th, so I reverted back to the way I first had it, which engaged smothers into the sloot and had the flat of the post at the top so the keyed indicator points to the N on the case. That seemed to be right. So back to the first problem. The red rev lights when I'm in R and N and turns off as I go up to first and above. The start button will not work in N or any other gear for that matter. If I check the continuity on the Lg/r wire coming from the switch, I get nothing in any gear including N. I do get continuity on the white wire when in either R or N. I believe should be getting it in just R and I should have it for the Lg/r wire only when in N.
It would be great if I could buy a new one, but they seem to be completely unavailable. Does anyone have any idea how to rehab one of these switches and what sort of things to check if I pull this all back out. I've read about doing a bypass toggle switch on the Lg/r wire, but I have a feeling the live circuit for the reverse will block me at the CDI if I can't kill that too. Frankly I don't want to have to mess with rigged up switches to replace the function of the gear switch.
Any suggestion on how to fix switch itself or a source for one would be greatly appreciated. (Honda 35759-HF1-000 SWITCH ASSY., CHANGE )
Thanks
It would be great if I could buy a new one, but they seem to be completely unavailable. Does anyone have any idea how to rehab one of these switches and what sort of things to check if I pull this all back out. I've read about doing a bypass toggle switch on the Lg/r wire, but I have a feeling the live circuit for the reverse will block me at the CDI if I can't kill that too. Frankly I don't want to have to mess with rigged up switches to replace the function of the gear switch.
Any suggestion on how to fix switch itself or a source for one would be greatly appreciated. (Honda 35759-HF1-000 SWITCH ASSY., CHANGE )
Thanks
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It's a shame that manufacturers design a complicated device for a simple job and then only use it for 7 years, but things are not supposed to last in perpetuity. You will only find the part in a used unit or on the shelf of a Honda shop who has forgotten they have it. I do not know of a way to fix it, but a quality machine shop may be able to duplicate it for less than a thousand dollars. I suggest you try to find a 90 to 97 200D engine to steal the part out of as the chance of fixing the old one is pretty much zero and finding a new one is zero. Finding a used one is iffy - I found 5, but they had all been robbed of the LH cover and gear indicator switch.
Good luck restoring the dinosaur.
Good luck restoring the dinosaur.
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Thanks for the 'positive' encouragement. I actually had ordered one a couple weeks ago only the have the order refunded with an apology that it really wasn't in stock. So I guess its hilly billy repaire time. I pulled it backout this morning and found that my misadventure in trying to do a 180 cause me to bust off half of the spring pin. Luckily I found one that will work at Tractor Sup in town and won't have to wait or pay shipping for just that. At least you can get those. Other issues I discovered on close inspection, the Lg/r connect was just holding on by a few wirers and needed to be resodered. Whomever tried to fix this swich was only a bit worse at that then I am. But the real issue was inside. There is a helical sping contact that need to touch a plate that has the gray and the white contacts connected and then the nub on the spring contact touches a contact spot compleating the circuit to the Lg/r. The gray white contact plate was bent down too far and broken at the contact spot end. It took some reposition to reshape to a smooth ramp where the nub can run back and forth over it and then bridge the contact points. Since the plate was exposed from the crumpled plastic I leaded in some solder behind it to build it up. Got the switch rotation contacts working and giving good connectivity results with it hand held in the case shell. I then set about building up the broken plastic head with JB Weld. Will test fit into the mount once dry. May have shape, sand and add more to get the right contour. So for so good I guess.
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