[Blizzy]

I picked up an 02 400ex. The start button doesn’t work. No noise no clicks nothing. The kill switch will shut the engine off though. I can start the quad if I put a screw driver to the solenoid and would rather not rely on this. Battery just charged and fires right up if I do that. I did notice the neutral wire may be broke from the engine by the clutch. How do I replace this? I touched it all over and the neutral light still wouldn’t come on and the start button wouldn’t work though. So not sure if that’s the issue or not. I pulled the fuse by the battery and it didn’t look burnt or anything but I’m no expert with electrical stuff. Any insight on where to start next would be great thank you

 

[Blizzy]

This is the neutral sub wire. It looks like the gold end broke off. How do I replace it? I already have a new cable coming

 

[Here 2 help]

The neutral wire needs to be connected to ground to turn the neutral light on - the solenoid has no ground until the neutral light is on or the clutch switch is closed - even if the clutch switch is closed, the solenoid still does not have a ground if the plug in diode near the battery is bad.

 

[Blizzy]

The neutral wire needs to be connected to ground to turn the neutral light on - the solenoid has no ground until the neutral light is on or the clutch switch is closed - even if the clutch switch is closed, the solenoid still does not have a ground if the plug in diode near the battery is bad.

I bought a new neutral switch wire to go in by the clutch because this one broke off on the end. Does it just plug in to the spot and hook to the solenoid on the other end? I also bought a new solenoid just to be sure. I wasn’t sure it was the solenoid since it wasn’t clicking when I pressed the start button but I also feel like it’s better to just replace it if I can also.

 

[Here 2 help]

The wire (#8) plugs onto a post on the switch (#5) just in front of and below the front sprocket right behind the shift lever (#16 is the reverse light switch for 2005 and up models) - the diode for starting in gear which works in conjunction with the clutch lever switch is #6

 

[Blizzy]

The wire (#8) plugs onto a post on the switch (#5) just in front of and below the front sprocket right behind the shift lever (#16 is the reverse light switch for 2005 and up models) - the diode for starting in gear which works in conjunction with the clutch lever switch is #6
View attachment 5271
View attachment 5272

I’m thinking the people I got this off of had it backwards. It appears from the diagram they plugged the gold end of #8 into #5 how do I remove #5 from the bike? I’ll have to check if the post is there. Here’s a better pic of my situation

 

[Here 2 help]

It's either a 14 or 17 mm socket will unscrew it, but I believe the post is still there protected in a well - use pliers and pull what's left of a barrel connector off of it - if the post is gone, then get a new switch - note: the transmission/engine will drain a small amount of oil when the switch is removed - also note: the aluminum sealing washer under the oil drain bolt is extruded from over tightening - you should replace that washer at the same time.

 

[Blizzy]

It's either a 14 or 17 mm socket will unscrew it, but I believe the post is still there protected in a well - use pliers and pull what's left of a barrel connector off of it - if the post is gone, then get a new switch - note: the transmission/engine will drain a small amount of oil when the switch is removed - also note: the aluminum sealing washer under the oil drain bolt is extruded from over tightening - you should replace that washer at the same time.

I did pull the rest of the post out. Didn’t realize it was simple as unscrewing. I was afraid I’d have to open something up to make the connection. I’m ordering the washer and post screw from Partzilla tonight. I just wanna say thank you for this help

 

[Here 2 help]

Good luck when you put the parts on that it fixes the problem without more work.

 

[Blizzy]

Good luck when you put the parts on that it fixes the problem without more work.

Hopefully this is the case lol. Previous owner seemed clueless

 

[Nathan]

I picked up an 02 400ex. The start button doesn’t work. No noise no clicks nothing. The kill switch will shut the engine off though. I can start the quad if I put a screw driver to the solenoid and would rather not rely on this. Battery just charged and fires right up if I do that. I did notice the neutral wire may be broke from the engine by the clutch. How do I replace this? I touched it all over and the neutral light still wouldn’t come on and the start button wouldn’t work though. So not sure if that’s the issue or not. I pulled the fuse by the battery and it didn’t look burnt or anything but I’m no expert with electrical stuff. Any insight on where to start next would be great thank you

Check the fuse next to the solenoid

 

[Blizzy]

Check the fuse next to the solenoid

I did buy a couple that I’m gonna switch out

 

[Blizzy]

Good luck when you put the parts on that it fixes the problem without more work.

Ok so I finally got a new neutral wire and switch installed and still no neutral light. I changed the fuse as well and noticed the fuse by the battery goes into the wiring and then they have it on the negative terminal. Is that where it’s supposed to go? Also I have a new solenoid do you think that’s an issue? I’m afraid I’d hear clicking and not sure that prevents the neutral light from coming on.

 

[Here 2 help]

No - the fuse in in the positive wire

 

[Blizzy]

No - the fuse in in the positive wire

View attachment 5283

Sorry I got the two mixed up it is going to the positive just double checked. The solenoid and fuse are screwed into the positive 2 different cables. Does the solenoid sound like a possible culprit here?

 

[Here 2 help]

Before the solenoid can be the culprit, the neutral light needs to work first.

It's really very simple - red wire goes to the key switch - when the switch is on, the black wire is hot - the black wire goes to the neutral light, rec,reg and the handlebar switch. The light green wire with a red stripe is ground for the neutral light - when the lg/r wire is connected to ground by the neutral switch, the light comes on.

 

[Blizzy]

Before the solenoid can be the culprit, the neutral light needs to work first.

View attachment 5287




It's really very simple - red wire goes to the key switch - when the switch is on, the black wire is hot - the black wire goes to the neutral light, rec,reg and the handlebar switch. The light green wire with a red stripe is ground for the neutral light - when the lg/r wire is connected to ground by the neutral switch, the light comes on.

Ok I’ll give this a look after this NorEaster passes

 

[Blizzy]

Before the solenoid can be the culprit, the neutral light needs to work first.

View attachment 5287




It's really very simple - red wire goes to the key switch - when the switch is on, the black wire is hot - the black wire goes to the neutral light, rec,reg and the handlebar switch. The light green wire with a red stripe is ground for the neutral light - when the lg/r wire is connected to ground by the neutral switch, the light comes on.

Not sure if you can see but I see the wires you’re talking about. I don’t think they should be in a heat wrap because the new solenoid I bought is a plug in one. But idk if you can see in the pictures it looks like from the old solenoid on it is a green/red to a yellow green. I’m afraid I’m going to end up needing to buy a whole new wiring harness for this thing.

 

[Here 2 help]

OK - I don't see it clearly, but the y/g and y/r appear to be connected to the solenoid.

The black wire is switched 12v+ - it has 12v on it when the key switch is on - y/r should have 12v+ on it when the starter button is pushed.

Now I am not a fan of crimp connectors - I prefer to solder wires and heat shrink the joints, so it's possible there is simply a faulty connection.

Start by checking for voltage on the y/r wire when the start button is pushed - if that test is positib=ve, then start chasing the ground issue on the y/g wire.

 

[Blizzy]

OK - I don't see it clearly, but the y/g and y/r appear to be connected to the solenoid.
View attachment 5291
The black wire is switched 12v+ - it has 12v on it when the key switch is on - y/r should have 12v+ on it when the starter button is pushed.

Now I am not a fan of crimp connectors - I prefer to solder wires and heat shrink the joints, so it's possible there is simply a faulty connection.

Start by checking for voltage on the y/r wire when the start button is pushed - if that test is positib=ve, then start chasing the ground issue on the y/g wire.

Ok so I put in a new solenoid today hoping that would do something and unfortunately it didn’t. But the y/g wire doesn’t have an adapter end and the new solenoid does. I had the old y/g from the harness just kind of laying in the adapter to the solenoid just looking to test if anything would change and it didn’t. Should I cut the adapter off the new solenoid and solder the wires together or do you not think that’ll make a difference? Again I’m obviously not great with electric stuff