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Quick update i now have dc voltage at the cdi socket at the front of the atv . Ignition pulse generator.2.78

Ive done a test on the yellow and black wire going to the coil and get nothing

So red probe on yellow and white wire

Black probe on ground.

Thanks
 

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2 to 5 volts from the pulse generator is nominal (meaning what you are reading is good) - the charge coil generally puts out about 45v nominal, so that's good the last thing needed is about 100v from the CDI to the coil on the blk/yel wire to ground. If all that checks good, then it's most likely a faulty coil, spark plug cap, spark plug or the rare loss of ground between the engine and frame. If the electric starter works, then loss of ground between engine and frame is highly unlikely as a factor.
 

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Okay so im not getting any voltage from the cdi to the yellow/black wire . Ive already replaced this units once in trying to fix the fault.. (i did use a aftermarket cdi at 80pound 109 dollars approximately on ebay) is there any other ways i can confirm if it is the cdi. Is there a cheaper box i could buy. Last thing i want to do is buy the cdi to find out its not that.



Thanks for your reply. Means alot.
 

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Okay so im not getting any voltage from the cdi to the yellow/black wire . Ive already replaced this units once in trying to fix the fault.. (i did use a aftermarket cdi at 80pound 109 dollars approximately on ebay) is there any other ways i can confirm if it is the cdi. Is there a cheaper box i could buy. Last thing i want to do is buy the cdi to find out its not that.



Thanks for your reply. Means alot.

To discover i had no voltage on my black/yellow wire. I plugged the cdi back in to the harness and cranked the engine

The peak voltage was checked

Black wire to ground
Red to black/yellow.

Thanks
If the peak voltages are good going into the CDI, then the CDI unit has to be the problem

I don't buy from Ebay or Amazon - the part number is 30410-HN1-003 and it retails for $120 USD - I can buy for $80 new from Honda.
 

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Ahhh........ You bought a CDI unit for 05-14 400EX when you needed the one for 99-04 - did you do that because it was cheaper? In 05 they put reverse in the transmission and the CDI was changed to incorporate a reverse speed limiter and the fact that they were not changed for 9 years makes them more plentiful and cheaper than the ones only made for 5 years and are more scarce and higher priced.
 

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In all fairness i brought it by mistake. I only realised that the part is wrong when you sent the correct part number. Ill be sure to buy from honda . Ill update you soon. Thanks for your help. Hopfully the new cdi works or atleast the yellow and black wire gets an output from the cdi.

I can then move on to the next step

Thanks
 

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HI guys,

So the CDI had arrived. Connected it a boom ive got a spark...

Im so happy after spending hours on the quad.

"Here to help" you have been a fantastic help . I really appreciate all your help honestly.

So i figured rather then just leaving the site i should share my lessons ive learnt.

The issue started not to long after i brought the quad.

For some reason the quad speedo didnt work. I tried guessing by moving wires around to fix the issue. ( wires seemed to be everywhere and tightened together by twisting wires)

I then made the issue worse by having no spark ( i think i disturbed a wire). After reading verious messages on the internet i changed the CDI stator rectifier spark plug and coil. I also added a whole new wiring harness.(tbh this harness was needed as this one was chopped up and sliced for after market immobilisers and speedos)

No joy . After spending hours on the quad i kind of give up for alittle while.

I then joined this group and was reading through the process of testing the ignition components with a peak voltage meter with help from "here to help".

I quickly identified the issue with the meter and realised the CDI was at fault. The model number i had recently replaced the CDI with was incorrect.

Here in the UK we have registration plates with the year of the quad on the rear plate. Mine said 07 so i assumed i needed a 07 cdi. This was incorrect as the year 07 was when the ATV was registered on the road the chassis number actually states the truth (2004). Dont let this one trick you out.

Anyone with this issue. Please test the ignition system appropriately and DO NOT order parts and throw money at the quad.. you may buy aftermarket parts and cause more issues as i experienced.

Once the new cdi was add the ATV started fine. I did notice the lights were flickering as if there wasn't enough power .

At the rectify i got a reading of 2.3v i then changed the rectifier with the oem part from honda and i got 12v ..

Lastly i noticed people had spark issues with there atv from the rectifier. I can start my quad and it will run fine without the rectifier pluged in.

Okay thanks alot for reading.

Any questions happy to help.
 

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@Anil hira - glad you are not 'leaving' - this is a collective group of enthusiast who attempt to help each other by sharing knowledge and experience. For some, it's a place to brag about their machine, accomplishments and stupidity. Some like post pics of their quad after being crashed, submerged in a swamp or perched in a tree. Some brag about their "upgrades" which are nothing more than modifications (wiring chopping included). And then there is me, a mechanic with a degree in electronics and over 40 years of experience trying to help owners save some money by offering guidance on how to determine the source of a problem and how to rectify that problem. I also share PDF files of service manuals as part of my quest to help others. Welcome to the forum.
 

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@here to help..

Hi was helping you could assist me with another issue im facing..

So i start the quad bike and it will run for 1 or more minutes and then just cut out.

I noticed if i rev the quad it sputters and cuts out

Once the quad cuts out i have to wait a minute or so as the quad doesn't start straight away and just cranks over. I took the spark plug out and check for spark right after it cuts out to see why it dont start .. im getting spark

The quad seems to sound nice at idle prior to the cut out. It dont struggle to suggest its to lean or anything.

Ive chaged the cdi with one i had that works fine .. i notice no changes (Still the same issue)

Checked kill switch No issues

Ive check all the connections and they seems to be fine..

Removed air box and started no change

Only thing i think it could be is the stator .. is there anyway of testing it while it runs?

Or does it sound like a fuel issue

Thanks
 

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I had an 05 that would only rev to a certain RPM - acted like the rev limiter was active - I disabled the rev limiter and it ran the same - I replaced the stator and it ran fine.

There is only 3 major components to the ignition system - the coil, CDI box and stator. The rest of the ignition system is the spark plug, spark plug cap and the flywheel. Cut the blk/wht wire at the CDI box and you can't kill the spark.

I'm going to guess if it's not a connection problem, a new stator will fix it.
 

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So, once again thankyou here to help..

I changed the stator to an oem part..

Please see picture of the old stator note its aftermarket..

Really weird, its almost as if its become damaged theres no sign of part that have become loose and have broken the winding

But see picture it has cable ties on it could have caught on the pulley

Ive put it all back together now and its started fine no issues.. Do i need prime oil back into the case or is it litreally just a matter of starting it up and letting the oil push through itself.

Seems alittle louder then normal from around the area where the stator is..

i have switched it off for now untill i get an answer.

Thanks so much for your help .
 

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I might suppose the zip ties failed from heat, but as to the question of oil, it is self filling - no problem anticipated there, but is that blue RTV I see that had been used for a sealant? That stuff can block oil passages - it is useless for sealing against oil and can do more damage than good. RTV is one product you will not find in my shop. I may have acceptable uses but none in an engine.
 

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Hi, thanks for your response.. i have used this sealant yes. This was used in addition to the paper gasket where the casing is compressed together with the bolts a small amount was spread along to keep the gaskit in place.. the colour of the sealent was white.. hopefully i haven't done damage but will check any holes with an inspection camera to see if theres any sealent in there

Thanks again
 

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Hi, thanks for your response.. i have used this sealant yes. This was used in addition to the paper gasket where the casing is compressed together with the bolts a small amount was spread along to keep the gaskit in place.. the colour of the sealent was white.. hopefully i haven't done damage but will check any holes with an inspection camera to see if theres any sealent in there

Thanks again
If you used it sparingly, probably no damage will be done - most people use it in place of a gasket and not just to hold the gasket in place. I assemble clean and dry - no sealants where gaskets are used and liquid plastic case sealant where no material gasket is used. The problem is when it is smeared on heavily or applied in a bead prior to assembly. The the excess is pressed into oil passages and bolt holes. I have seen cases broken from hydraulic pressure when a gob of RTV is pressed with a bolt into the bottom of a blind hole as well as the bolt never contacting the cover before stripping the threads out of the hole because the RTV in the bottom of the hole prevented the bolt from going into the hole any further. The same thing can be done with oil, but oil is low enough viscosity if the bolt is tightened slowly, the oil will escape past the threads and the bolt will tighten normally.
 
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