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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to fix my friends TRX250, not exactly sure of the year but I'm pretty sure it is a 99 ca model.

Problem is when I turn the key the neutral lights but I get nothing when I press the starter button, not even a click.

Kill switch is in the correct position.
Battery is fully charged.
Brand new solenoid or whatever that thing is next the battery.
Seems all the grounds are good.

I looked in the troubleshooting section of the clymer book. It recommended checking the neutral switch, it checked out fine I had continuity in neutral and none when I shifted it. (found it easiest to tilt the vehicle partly on it's right side.)

It also recommended checking the ignition switch, but see no information on how to do so. I have pulled it and I'm hoping to get some information. (On my motorcycle 93 BMW K75 I was able to clean up the ignition switch when I had a similar problem and it works fine since), on the trx it doesn't seem this is possible?

I don't want to throw parts at it.

Thank you for any help!

Andy
 

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I'll take a stab at it.

If you have the VIN I can tell you exactly what year and model it is. This proceedure is for the 250EX model. It may not apply to other models.

If your ignition switch has 4 wires - red, black, green and black with a white stripe - then just the fact that the neutral light comes on tells me that the switch is working.

Your problem has to be the starter button or the solenoid.
When you turn on the key switch, power from the battery (red wire) connects to the black wire. The black wire is what Honda refers to as the "switched hot wire". The black wire goes to the starter button. When you press the start button, power is connected to the yellow w/red stripe wire. It goes from the button to the starter solenoid (Honda refers to it as the starter relay, through the relay and to the light green wire. The light green wire goes to the CDI box and the neutral switch. If the neutral switch is ok, then the solenoid should close (click) and the starter will spin.

By the way - when you turn the key switch or the handlebar engine stop switch to the off position - it connects the black wire with a white stripe to the green wire which connects the ignition to ground killing the spark, but on this model the starter will still spin if just the handlebar switch is turned off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here 2 Help

Thank you for the simple explanation of how the starting system works. Eeven thought my grandfather worked for GE for many years as an electrician I've had a hard time grasping how electric work, it's slowly creeping in.

I don't have the vin# yet. I did notice a sticker on the right front frame under the fender.

I opened up the clymer again.
I checked the ignition switch with an multi digital meter and put it on the Ohm, scale...I had continuity when I was supposed to.

I checked the diode, all is well.

There is a brand new starter relay installed.

I think it is the starter switch.
I didn't take off the front fender yet, still tried to get to the starter switch harness. It seems to be a red connector way up under the right frame. Instead I went to the starter solenoid and disconnected the y/r and the light green bullet connectors and checked for continuity between the two wires when I push the starter button and got nothing pressed or depressed. This tells me the switch is bad?


Is there a way to bypass the starter switch to make sure that's my problem before I order a whole new handlebar switch unit?

Thank you for your help!

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
reverse

I also wanted to add that I tested the neutral switch for continuity and that was fine but I can't seem to get the reverse light to come on. I've never driven this vehicle before it was disabled. Assuming reverse probably has nothing to do with it starting.

So is there a ay to bypass the starter switch for now to see if I can get it to run?

Thank you!
Andy
 

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Final test - since you have bullet connectors - with everything connected and the neutral light on, unplug the y/r wire from the solenoid and using a jumper lead, connect the y/r wire that is attached to the solenoid to the positive terminal of the battery. The solenoid should close and the starter should spin.

Using the milti-meter, you should check for voltage between the y/r wire on the wiring harness end of the bullet connector and the negative side of the battery (or frame, or engine, or both) - you should see battery voltage when the starter button is pressed.

Note: I worked for GE back in the 70's in Bloomington, IL as a technician in the High Current Lab.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
started!

Thanks to you I was able to start it with the jumper wire. I haven't checked to see if there is battery voltage yet between the two. I'm assuming if I don't have any that the starter switch is bad or there's a break in the wire somewhere. Seems the only way to replace the switch is to purchase an entirely new handlebar switch assembly? Or if the owner wants me to I could maybe rig something up. So glad I stuck with this.

Now the problem is when it started it was revving so high I thought it was going to take off into the stratosphere. Glad there's a kill switch! I did have the carburator apart and I'm wondering if did the wrong adjustment on the pilot screw. I should have checked teh vin etc first. I set it to 2 5/8 turns out (98-01) models. How do I adjust the pilot screw while on the ATV? A small L shaped screwdriver?

Other thought is the throttle cable had so much slack in it, so I adjusted that correctly at the handlebar and didn't change anything except for the correct slack. I also tried moving around the idle screw but then my battery died. What is the initial setting of the idle screw? Maybe the throttle cable is on the wrong adjustment.

Thank you for your time!

Andy
 

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The first giveaway here is the throttle cable "had a lot of slack" and the engine idled at take off velocity.

When you put a slide carb back together, there is a pin in the slide bore and a slot on the side of the slide. My guess is either you failed to line up the slot with the pin or the slide needle missed going into the needle jet.

You can wire a normally open kill switch into the wiring harness going to the switch housing on the handlebar as a starter button.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Grateful 4 Help

Hello ________, what is your first name?
You were spot on with the throttle, I had it in backwards.

It seems I have a 2000 model with a CA carburetor PDC1C.

It's cold out there tonight. I got it started but it wouldn't stay running. I didn't try for very long. The owner had said to me one of the last problems they remember was it not staying running so that's why I went through the carb but it was very clean, no blockage.

The spark plug showed signs of running rich so I replaced that too.

What should the initial setting of the throttle stop screw be? 2 turns out?

I see too that maybe the the jet needle is in the wrong position even though I haven't checked it yet, seems I should raise it up one to lean out the mixture.

Does radio shack or the like sell kill switches?

Thoughts are most welcome.

Thank you!

Andy
ps my grandfather spent a good part of the 50, 60's in Schenectady and Syracuse until landing in Lynchburg in the late 60's for the rest of his life. I remember he used to sell( Philco or Motorola) two way polcie radios when they first came out.
 

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Andy, if it won't stay running after started and the valve clearence is sufficient (too loose is better than too tight) and it's not losing spark - the problem is in the carb or the exhaust. Sometimes, when a machine has been in storage, rodents fill the exhaust with material that chokes off the exit of gases - pressure builds and the engine dies.

There's three circuits in the carb - low speed (idle) - mid-range (running at a steady speed between appx. 1/4 to 3/4 throttle - high speed (wide open up to top RPM)

The idle circuit is controlled by the air/fuel mixture screw (if the screw is on the air cleaner side of the carb - it's an "air" screw - if it's on the engine side of the carb - it's a fuel screw), the difference is that they work opposite - air screw is screwed in to richen mixture - fuel screw is turned out to richen mixture.

There is no "initial" setting for the throttle stop screw (idle speed screw) - I turn it in till I see the slide rise about a 1/16 of an inch - start the engine - set the idle speed - let it warm up then adjust both the idle speed and fuel mixture screws until satisfactory idle is obtained.

After the idle is set - drive the machine in 2nd or 3rd gear at various cruising speeds to assure the carb in not too rich or too lean at the steady throttle settings (too lean it kinda acts like it wasts to go faster but can't - maybe surges a bit) too rich it just kinda blubbers like the choke is on. Adjust by raising the needle (move the clip down a notch) for too lean or lower the needle for too rich.

Once you have the low and mid right, check the top end - in 2nd or 3rd gear - hold the throttle wide open till the engine runs out of rpm or hits the rev limiter. It should accelerate linearly without surging (lean) or blubbering (rich).

Sometimes problems are caused by improper float bowl venting, obstructed fuel flow, incorrect float level or vacuum leaks.

It's rocket science at the entry level.

You can get a kill switch at most any cycle dealer and some auto supplies.

Good luck,
Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
idling sort of

Hey Steve,
I got it to idle some what. It almost seems the throttle cable is getting hung up sometimes when I release it even thought it moves freely, so I took it it off and lubed it up but didn't seem to make much difference. It made it hard to set the idle, once it seems to be fully released I have a good idle, sometimes it'll be to high and then settle down other times it goes right where it should be.

Once first started, I noticed it seems to hick up about 8 times. Once it's warm it runs pretty smooth..almost seems like a spark issue. I'll see if it happens Friday when I have some more time.

I bought a starter button with two connections to wire in. I'm assuming I need to splice in to the wires near the handlebar (y/r and green), solder in some longer wire and find a place to attach it.

Clutch cable seems shot and I'm not able to get into reverse. I tried to squeeze and shift in to second and it popped into second telling me the clutch lever on the tranny wasn't even moving. Seems it's time for a new cable.

Thanks again.

Andy
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
starter

anyone else ever splice in a starter button or found away to fix the old starter switch?
 

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i have an issue where the neutral light is on, the solenoid clicks and batter if fully charged. What I have noticed is that i can wiggle the gear shifter and it will start.
 

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i have an issue where the neutral light is on, the solenoid clicks and batter if fully charged. What I have noticed is that i can wiggle the gear shifter and it will start.
I presume you have a (year) TRX250X EX FW? Can't be an R as they were kick start and two stroke.

Without knowing what it is, I'll take a stab that you actually have a bad solenoid. Next time you try starting it, if the solenoid clicks one time and you hold the starter button in, try tapping the solenoid with a screwdriver handle. If it starts cranking the engine as soon as you tap the solenoid once or twice, replace the solenoid. If the solenoid "machine guns" (rapidly closes and opens repeatedly), then you have a bad battery or a bad connection to the battery. If neither of these is the case, try holding the starter button and tapping the starter motor with a screwdriver handle or small hammer. If the engine starts cranking after tapping the starter motor, you have a bad starter motor.

Let me know if any of my guesses are right.
 
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