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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I picked up this machine cheap with no spark. Thought I could fix it no problem. I performed all the ohm checks and everything checked out. So I ordered a CDI. Plugged it in and still no spark. I re-did my tests and still all ohmed ok in spec. So I got another CDI, still no spark. The second CDI came with a new coil, plugged that in and still no spark. Replaced the stator, still no spark.........
Cut the grey wire (reverse switch), no spark, cut the blue/white wire (kill & ignition switch) no spark. I'm at a loss. Please help
I tried a cheap cdi twice. Chances of having 2 no good out of the box is really high. I replaced the pick up with a dealer part and a ricks stator. Everything still ohms out in spec.
 

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You mean you cut the black/white kill wire?

Time to get out the peak voltage tester and check the outputs of each component - and 2 bad Amazon CDI units are closer to 50/50, but the only other option is a used CDI from Ebay or a handful of the $10 Chinese copies, but if you use a peak voltage tester, you might discover a wiring problem.
 

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The older machines and manuals were a bit sketchy as they worked onm the premise that if you replace all the parts it will work again - today, the product is not supported (kinda like I have computers running DOS, Windows 2.1, Millennium, XP and Windows 7 - the platforms are no longer supported by Microsoft, but they all work, can work together and can be repaired by savvy knowledgeable geeks) - the new manuals give you and insight to the old systems.

What you need to do is check the peak voltage at the CDI unit plug on:
The blk/red wire to ground (CDI charge coi)l (typically about 45 volts peak checked with a peak voltage meter, a std. multimeter with a PV adapter or an oscilloscope)

The blu/yel wire to ground to check the output of the pulse coil (typically about 3 to 5 volts)

Check the continuity to ground on the green wire of the CDI unit plug

Check for no continuity on the blk/wht kill wire to ground

With the CDI unit plugged in, check for about 100 volts output on the blk/yel wire to ground at the coil

Finally, check for about 30 to 40,000 volts on the high tension wire to the spark plug to ground

If you have the voltages and no spark, check all the ground connections
4735
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I ran the tests, I'm not getting any voltage on any wires. I pulled the voltage regulator out and there's an open between the terminals. My manual says should have 1.0 ohm or less. There's no voltage on it either. When I test the blue/yellow or the black/red wire to ground on the stator connector I get 0 volts on both.
I also bought a Rick's CDI just to cover the possibility of 2 bad Chinese cdi's.
I'm thinking I have a bad regulator for sure and possibly a bad new Rick's stator.
 

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The regulator in the above diagram has nothing to do with spark - it's only purpose is to regulate the AC voltage from the alternator to 14v or to prevent the lights from burning out.

Starting at the alternator - using a peak voltage tester, how much voltage do you have on the black wire with a white stripe to ground with the engine cranking over and the spark plug out?
 
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