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TRX300 no or weak spark

141227 Views 49 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  bobuphd883
Hi all,
I have a 1989 TRX300 4x4 which I am having spark issues with. At first I thought it was the ignition coil and have replaced that with a brand new one but still nothing. next step was the CDI. With the spark plug removed I can only get a weak spark when the starter button is first pressed or after I have released it, there is nothing whilst it is cranking. I have now replaced the cdi with a known good one I have borrowed but I now have no spark at all. Can anyone shed any light on this for me
cheers
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[B]Bad Voltage regulator can affect the ignition and cause a no spark condition.[/B]

No - the rectifier/regulator only has to do with charging the battery. You can test the rec/reg by simply disconnecting it.


My 2000 TRX450ES wouldn't spark, and the problem was the Regulator/ rectifier. I had trigger voltage coming to the CDI, 12v, ground, etc. but didn't have any voltage going to the coil primary.
I disconnected the regulator/rectifier, and it wouldn't spark.

Replaced the CDI, but that didn't fix it.
Replaced the Voltage regulator, and fixed my problem.
I even installed the Old CDI after replacing the regulator and it worked.

Bad Voltage regulator can affect the ignition and cause a no spark condition.
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How can the Rectifier / Voltage Regulator affect Spark

The answer to your question is one the three leads from the Stator is wired in Parallel with the voltage regulator and the CDI (this is the link between the CDI and the Voltage regulator).

Apparently, at least one of the Diodes in my Regulator / Rectifier is bad affecting the AC current from the stator which feeds the CDI. This is how the Voltage regulator can affect the ignition system. (I did get some different readings between the 3 terminals on the voltage regulator that the stator leads connect to which would have led me to the bad regulator). The Honda Factory Service Manual does not indicate that the Voltage Regulator should be tested, nor do they provide any instruction on testing the Voltage Regulator on a non running engine (diode testing).

If you look at the wiring diagram and follow the stator leads, you'll notice the connection which goes to the CDI from this single stator lead between the stator and the Voltage Regulator.

There is a way to test the voltage regulator diodes (I've seen some posts about it), but I'm not certain that it is absolutely fool proof. And it is truly annoying when someone is asking for help with a no spark condition and guys post about testing the voltage regulator with the engine running... It's not running. That's why they are asking for help...

I never had a problem with the battery charging on this ATV, even when it started acting up. It would run sometimes, sometimes not. But the battery was always fine which would lead you to believe there is no reason to suspect the voltage regulator...

I just wanted to put this information out so that others that have this No Spark problem will hopefully see this which could speed their diagnosis and repair.

The dealerships have the advantage of being able to just plug in a new CDI and Voltage Regulator which only takes a few minutes to determine which is a problem as opposed to having to check every connection, ground, quick connector, and every device that can be tested with a multimeter before buying a replacement part.

If you have a no spark condition and everything tests good, and you've replaced the CDI, DON'T OVERLOOK THE VOLTAGE REGULATOR. IT CAN AFFECT YOUR IGNITION SYSTEM AND CAUSE A NO SPARK CONDITION.

Just Google testing your voltage regulator diodes Honda ATV TRX, and hopefully you'll find some instructions which can be done with a multimeter that has a diode test function.


https://www.google.com/search?clien...oltage+regulator+diode+test&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8
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At least in my case, disconnecting the regulator did not resolve my no spark problem. With the regulator disconnected, my ignition system would not spark.

When you have a bad voltage regulator and you've only worked on one atv and it had a bad one, it's not rare. In my case, it was 100 percent of the time. I think that most people would be surprised that the regulator can kill your ignition spark.
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Do you have a DVA Adapter?
Get one to test the stator before you replace it.

Do you have a wiring diagram for the ATV?
If not, get one. Manuals available inexpensively.
This will help you understand where each wire terminates and its function.


You can do a limited functionality check of the rectifier if your meter has a diode check function.

The only things that you can't definitively test with a multimeter and DVA are the CDI and the Rectifier. Everything else you can eliminate with a DVA and good multimeter.
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Did you check the Pulse (pickup) coil?

You should test the wiring at the connector to the CDI unit for power from the start/stop switch, ground through the neutral switch, pulse coil output, ground, AC from the stator, and continuity to the ignition coil primary (from the CDI connector).

If these all test good, then reconnect the CDI and test for voltage output (using the DVA) from the CDI to the ignition coil primary wire.

If you have no voltage to the ignition coil primary, then your CDI and Voltage regulator are the only variables left.

You could do a diode check on the regulator, and if this checks out, replace the CDI first.

If you replace the CDI and still have no AC output from the CDI to the ignition coil primary, then replace the regulator. The voltage regulator can affect the ignition system because one of the legs from the stator is paralleled to the CDI.

By the way, if you have AC from the CDI to the ignition coil primary but have no spark, then the problem is with the ignition coil or spark plug.
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Wiring Diagram for example

I've attached a wiring diagram (from my ATV, your's may be different, especially the wire colors) so you can see how the ignition system is interconnected.

The CDI and the Voltage regulator are the only items in the ignition system that have internal circuitry that are unknown and not easily tested (without building a test apparatus than inputs the AC and DC voltages that are normally supplied to operate them).

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How Did He Test the Stator?

If I haven't revealed this before - a friend of mine had a 200, tested everything by the book, the only part that tested good was the stator, alas - the only part that was bad was the stator which tested good. The rectifier can be definitively tested with a meter - if it ohms out, then it's either the wiring, the stator, the flywheel magnet or something else kinda off the wall.

Did he test the AC output from the stator with a DVA?

The Honda service manual instructions are not complete.

You could also test the stator with a megger (Megohmeter).
Any industrial electrician would have one (you could get them to test it for you). Just be careful to either disconnect/ remove all sensitive electronics (CDI, voltage regulator, shift computer, speedometer display) or at least disconnect them. The Megger uses high voltages to test for poor insulation on the windings of the stator. Or you could remove the stator for testing.
Regulator Testing Definitive?

If I haven't revealed this before - a friend of mine had a 200, tested everything by the book, the only part that tested good was the stator, alas - the only part that was bad was the stator which tested good. The rectifier can be definitively tested with a meter - if it ohms out, then it's either the wiring, the stator, the flywheel magnet or something else kinda off the wall.
You can test the regulator using the diode check mode of a multimeter, but you're only testing the diodes. There are more components inside other than the Diodes. It could still be bad.

A diode test of the regulator is not a definitive test.
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