[Here 2 help]

I AM SURPRISED!!

I will contact Honda about this phenomenon as it is not covered in their service manual and I did not find anything about it in any of the service bulletins that I have.

Hopefully I can get my hands on one of these vehicles to do some investigating of my own.

Thanks again for the useful information.

 

[Joom]

Great thread. Registered here because I've been searching for answers and this was the most informative place I found out there.

I don't currently have a quad myself, but my buddy has a '96 300 Fourtrax 2x4 that he's been having problems with. He's had a few people look at it and nothing, so he asked me to have a go.

No spark at all. So far I've tested all the wiring for both power and resistance (where applicable), replaced the coil and plug wire (new) and CDI box (also new), neutral safety switch, and of course the plug. Nothing. Only things I haven't replaced are the stator and regulator, stators are expensive just for a test.

Power to (and past) the ignition switch, neutral light on, oil light pops on for a few seconds, starter works fine.

I even put a meter on the hot coil wire while I cranked it, and seem to only be getting a peak 0.03-0.04 volts on pulse. After reading this thread I also tried unplugging the regulator and spun it over - nothing.

No spark at all at any point, not even a weak one. It would seem after reading this thread that there isn't much left I can try except replacing the regulator and/or stator, but at this point replacing more parts as a test doesn't seem like the best idea, and I don't have another unit to borrow parts from. Just wondered if anyone might have any thoughts on any more testing I could do without more parts swapping.

Thanks...

 

[Here 2 help]

If I haven't revealed this before - a friend of mine had a 200, tested everything by the book, the only part that tested good was the stator, alas - the only part that was bad was the stator which tested good. The rectifier can be definitively tested with a meter - if it ohms out, then it's either the wiring, the stator, the flywheel magnet or something else kinda off the wall.

 

[Joom]

If I haven't revealed this before - a friend of mine had a 200, tested everything by the book, the only part that tested good was the stator, alas - the only part that was bad was the stator which tested good.

That would figure, wouldn't it?

The rectifier can be definitively tested with a meter - if it ohms out, then it's either the wiring, the stator, the flywheel magnet or something else kinda off the wall.

Appreciate that, Here 2 help. I didn't want to have to crack the case, but I guess that will be the next step after seeing how the rec tests out. I really miss the old days - check the points, check the coil, go riding.

I'll update if I find anything...

 

[flyingfreeman]

Do you have a DVA Adapter?
Get one to test the stator before you replace it.

Do you have a wiring diagram for the ATV?
If not, get one. Manuals available inexpensively.
This will help you understand where each wire terminates and its function.


You can do a limited functionality check of the rectifier if your meter has a diode check function.

The only things that you can't definitively test with a multimeter and DVA are the CDI and the Rectifier. Everything else you can eliminate with a DVA and good multimeter.

 

[flyingfreeman]

Did you check the Pulse (pickup) coil?

You should test the wiring at the connector to the CDI unit for power from the start/stop switch, ground through the neutral switch, pulse coil output, ground, AC from the stator, and continuity to the ignition coil primary (from the CDI connector).

If these all test good, then reconnect the CDI and test for voltage output (using the DVA) from the CDI to the ignition coil primary wire.

If you have no voltage to the ignition coil primary, then your CDI and Voltage regulator are the only variables left.

You could do a diode check on the regulator, and if this checks out, replace the CDI first.

If you replace the CDI and still have no AC output from the CDI to the ignition coil primary, then replace the regulator. The voltage regulator can affect the ignition system because one of the legs from the stator is paralleled to the CDI.

By the way, if you have AC from the CDI to the ignition coil primary but have no spark, then the problem is with the ignition coil or spark plug.

 

[flyingfreeman]

Wiring Diagram for example

I've attached a wiring diagram (from my ATV, your's may be different, especially the wire colors) so you can see how the ignition system is interconnected.

The CDI and the Voltage regulator are the only items in the ignition system that have internal circuitry that are unknown and not easily tested (without building a test apparatus than inputs the AC and DC voltages that are normally supplied to operate them).

 

[flyingfreeman]

How Did He Test the Stator?

If I haven't revealed this before - a friend of mine had a 200, tested everything by the book, the only part that tested good was the stator, alas - the only part that was bad was the stator which tested good. The rectifier can be definitively tested with a meter - if it ohms out, then it's either the wiring, the stator, the flywheel magnet or something else kinda off the wall.

Did he test the AC output from the stator with a DVA?

The Honda service manual instructions are not complete.

You could also test the stator with a megger (Megohmeter).
Any industrial electrician would have one (you could get them to test it for you). Just be careful to either disconnect/ remove all sensitive electronics (CDI, voltage regulator, shift computer, speedometer display) or at least disconnect them. The Megger uses high voltages to test for poor insulation on the windings of the stator. Or you could remove the stator for testing.

 

[flyingfreeman]

Regulator Testing Definitive?

If I haven't revealed this before - a friend of mine had a 200, tested everything by the book, the only part that tested good was the stator, alas - the only part that was bad was the stator which tested good. The rectifier can be definitively tested with a meter - if it ohms out, then it's either the wiring, the stator, the flywheel magnet or something else kinda off the wall.

You can test the regulator using the diode check mode of a multimeter, but you're only testing the diodes. There are more components inside other than the Diodes. It could still be bad.

A diode test of the regulator is not a definitive test.

 

[Here 2 help]

You can do a limited functionality check of the rectifier if your meter has a diode check function.

The only things that you can't definitively test with a multimeter and DVA are the CDI and the Rectifier. Everything else you can eliminate with a DVA and good multimeter.

The error here is that the rectifier can be statically tested using an ohm meter, but the regulator function has to be tested dynamically.

The full detail of the rectifier test procedure is in the service manual, but to test the regulator (without specialized test equipment) you install it on the vehicle. With a fully charged battery, an alternator that typically has 18 volts or higher AC output while connected to the wiring harness (in other words "under load"). With a volt meter connected to the battery terminals and the lights turned off (or disabled or the bulbs removed), run the engine at about 2000 rpm. The voltage at the battery should climb to about 14.8 volts DC, then the "regulator" cuts in, the voltage will drop to about 13 volts, the regulator cuts out and the voltage will again climb. The regulator is working if you see this cycle. The test must be done with a fully charged battery in good condition and the alternator must be in good condition with a sufficient AC output.

I have found alternators that might have 50 or more open circuit AC volts, but the voltage will drop to under 12 volts under load. You have to exceed battery voltage to get the battery to charge.

 

[Here 2 help]

You can't compare apples to oranges.

While the TRX450ES has an inter-connection of the charging system to the ignition system, the TRX300 does not share this feature.

While a lot of good technical information has been divulged here, I will urge caution to those who might have access to a Megohmeter - as stated, it uses high voltage. A megger can cause a stator that functions properly to fail during testing. Use at your own risk.

 

[Csayes0352]

Hey guys so I have a trx 300 2wd changed the stator factory was a 18 but I couldn't find one at the time so I put in a 12 do I need to change the rotator as well?

 

[Here 2 help]

Hey guys so I have a trx 300 2wd changed the stator factory was a 18 but I couldn't find one at the time so I put in a 12 do I need to change the rotator as well?

This post makes no sense to me - what are you referring to 18 & 12? Poles, years, voltage output, amp capacity? Clarification please

 

[Csayes0352]

The coils on the stator my bad lol

 

[evapolice1974]

I have a 300 Honda 97 model 4x4 put new ignition coil new spark plug I’m getting spark and fire and iv crank crank crank won’t start need help badly and getting fuel to it also … regulater cdi ???? Is it stator????

 

[Here 2 help]

WHAT IS THE COMPRESSION?