The rear axle is a "live" axle. It passes through the final drive and is a solid shaft from one side to the other. The brakes could be locked up causing neither wheel to turn. Also, being a 4WD, you have to get all 4 wheels off the ground to be able to make the wheels turn.

The starting circuit of the 2004-2007 models is very simple; if the starter solenoid closes, power is sent to the starter motor and the motor spins cranking the engine. You can test the solenoid and starter motor by using a jumper wire (or heavy screw driver) to jump across the two posts on the solenoid. If you do this and the engine cranks, replace the solenoid. If the engine does not spin and the starter motor <u>hums</u>, presume the starter motor is good and the engine is locked-up.

If the machine sat for two years with the fuel turned on, the tank probably drained through the carb filling the cylinder with gas. Liquid won't compress, so take the spark plug out and with the ignition switch off, turn the motor over by hand to push the liquid out of the cylinder. If the cylinder was full of gas, then that was one problem solved. Now put the plug back in and holding the throttle wide open try cranking it again. If it cranks normally then that was the second problem solved.

Now be prepared to flush the fuel tank, rebuild the carb and change the oil. You will have it going in no time (not). It will take awhile, but you will get it going by solving one problem at a time.

 

Hi Here to Help,

I very much appreciate your reply.

There were indeed two problems. I was tempted to say: "by coincidence" but I won't as both problems were clearly created by having left the bike unused for so long.

Your advice re the "live axle" aspect led me to fixing the brake problem (the pivot plate on the rear brake drum had frozen up through disuse and a bit of WD40 and a hammer soon fixed that issue).

The other problem of the bike not starting was in fact the starter solenoid - sorry for putting you off the scent here as I told you that it was new which it was. But as it was still almost three years old albeit with virtually no use, the passage of time obviously had affected its funtionality.

When I bridged its posts with a screwdriver the motor started. $39 later I had a new one in place and all is sweet.

EXCEPT, and again a warning to anyone reading this post who thinks its OK to leave your bike untouched for long periods, there was so much "crap" in the carbie that I had to take it out and used compressed air on it. But even that was inadequate after reinstalling. I had to have the choke full on at idle or low speed indicating it was still gunked up. So the carbie is presently sitting in the bath having a nice soak and then it will have to be reinstalled again.

I have learned some valuable lessons here:

a) most unleaded fuel is rubbish (in Australia anyway)

b) fuel should never sit for long periods in the tank {preferably install an inline fuel filter to augment the filter in the tank - only $7 or $8}

c) if you are not going to use the bike at least take it for a ride once a month to humour it

d) if you cannot use it at all, charge the battery every so often and then disconnect the terminals.

e) keep the bike under full cover ie walls and roof, so it is unaffected by condensation factors

f) Generally don't be under the misapprehension that because you are not using you are being kind to it - the opposite seems to be the case

I am sure there are other things that should be done as well but I am no expert.


Anyhow, thank you again for your help. The second part of your answer was most interesting too - I will store that away for future reference.

Best, bryanne

 

The saga continues. I thought everything was sweet but it is not. The electric starter is now working fine with the new starter solenoid but the bike is not running properly. I have spent a day cleaning the carb and reinstalling it (compressed air followed up by a bath overnight) and yesterday got it running but only at higher revs - it was not running at idle at all without the choke being full on. I tried every permutation of pilot screw setting known to man to no avail. But at least it was going.

But TODAY, after an initial immediate start up (I was thinking "great" - it's all resolved itself) I could not get it to start at all after that.

So I am thinking: are these problems due to the carbie getting flooded - or alternatively, not enough fuel. I have tried starting with the choke and without and with full throttle and no throttle - makes no difference.

The spark plug is sparking fine.

What I do not understand is: with a carbie that has been thoroughly cleaned, a spark plug that is sparking and fuel in the tank that is clean and fresh, why on earth am I having these problems?

The solution will only come from someone with a mind far greater than mine.

I am also getting ESP "---" flashing on the dash - I am not sure if this is because of the carbie change or not. Anyway, I do not think it would affect the starting of the bike.

Many thanks to anyone who can assist with this most frustrating of issues.

 

Spark plug sparking or not - install a new plug

If it runs (with choke on or at high reve). but won't idle - the carb's idle circuit is still clogged. It needs to be cleaned (all rubber parts removed) in a hot parts cleaning solution for several hours or replaced with a known good one.

Good luck

 

Thanks again Here 2 Help,

I installed a brand new spark plug today.

The bike is still not starting at all.

The "---" is flashing but this should not affect starting?

Yes, I fear I have no choice but to clean the carb again. I really would have though that the compressed air I put through it and the bath would have done the trick. It seems strange that it started once yesterday without effort but not since.

I will let you know how I go.

Cheers

 

"ESP" usually refers to Electric Shift Program - I have been offering suggestions for the manual shift model. Does your quad have a 17 digit VIN like we have here in the US?

 

Thanks Here 2 Help,

Yes, it is an Electric Shift.

I wouldn't even know where to look for the VIN

Nothing's changed - it still won't start. Would it be a fair bet that the carbie is still dirty?

Cheers, Bryan

 

Here in the states, the VIN is on a frame support plate welded between the frame tubes at the front on the machine and on the vehicle title. Sometimes the number gets covered by a winch mount.

According to the Honda service manual, the blinking display indicates a problem, but will not prevent it from running. To reset the fault indicator, turn the main switch on, press both the upshift and downshift buttons at the same time and hold for 3 seconds or more. The blinking should change to indicate erasure. Turn the key off. When you turn the key on again, the display should be normal.

Not starting? Will it start if you spray starting fluid (or propane gas) into the air intake or air filter? Can you keep it running with starter fluid or propane? If yes, clean the carb till it is working again.

Good luck

 

Thanks for that excellent info Here 2 Help. I will try all that. Diverted my energies for the moment to some welding on the frame. Then I will get back to the starting issues.

I will clear the error code as you specified - I assume it is only coming up as I removed the carbie and will not reappear.

All great assistance - thanks so much again.

 

It will most likely re-appear, it's what the "code" that is indicated is that will help diagnose the problem.